This April I went to Magic Wood for a couple of days to work on hard boulders I couldn’t finish the last time I was there. On the very top of my tick list there was New Base Line, a boulder problem which was originally put up by grand master Bernd Zangerl as an 8C. Meanwhile it has seen several attempts by the world’s best boulderers and got downgraded to 8B+.
It is not only hard. It looks also fine. A noble crack line running from right to left with a slight rise through an overhanging wall. In the middle of the wall above the crack line there are nicely shaped crimps and side holds heading up to the top edge. It is just perfect. A dream boulder. This is probably why it is supposed to be one of the best in the world. Weiterlesen →
During a comp last year Markus Jung recommended it to me. He was talking about the moves and I became excited to try it. After the comp was over I put it on my tick list and when I’ve headed to Nuremberg to live there for a while it became very close. I just had to wait for the right moment to try it. Around the Easter holiday my brother Ruben visited me and we drove out to the crag to give it the first tries. Weiterlesen →
During the DAV-day at Globetrotter Hamburg on March, 24th I will give a presentation on great boulder spots in Europe I already have been to in the past. It is going to be a little road trip with lots of photos, videos and useful information about the areas. The same day Dicki Korb, co-author of the training book “Gimme Kraft”, will give free training workshops too. So for everyone who’s interested here is the official announcement of the event! See You there David
In October last year I’ve been to the Oker Valley to the south of Hannover where I’ve done the FA of a nice Fb 8A boulder problem called Daruma. On 15th of February I re-visited the area with the local Falco Bartus who now published the nice little video above featuring Daruma and some other classics. Thank You Falco! I like it very much. Weiterlesen →
During New Year we’ve been to Ticino for bouldering and repeated some nice boulders in the 8A range. We’ve edited the little video above which shows a couple of 8A’s in Chironico we were able to send together.
It was the first time we haven’t been to Spain over Christmas and New Year’s Eve since a couple of years now. It was bouldering on nice granite instead of lead climbing in long limestone walls in Catalunya. A different feeling. As every time we leave thousands problems unrepeated. That’s why soon we’ll be back in Ticino
Featured problems in the video:
3° Carne (8A)
Rah Plats Plats (8A)
The Arete With The Pocket (8A)
Hineruage/Deep red (8A)
Blonch Addiction (8A)
Willenberg Dach (8A)
Yesterday we attended the “winner-party” in Hanover. All national and international sport champions in Lower Saxony were invited. David who won the European Boulder Youth Championship in Arco (Italy) was one of the three nominated athletes for the first price. At the end he was very happy of being announced 2nd, just after Jonas Bokeloh who is a Juniors´ World Champion in cycling. The 3rd place went to Johann Wahmhoff who is a Juniors´ World Champion in rowing. Weiterlesen →
I’m currently in Fontainebleau again and I thought why not putting up a little video again from my last trip earlier this year. I’m bouldering a lot and my skin isn’t so good. In Font I always have bad skin. It feels like it isn’t regrowing, I just ripp off more and more. Well, this is the only thing right now which isn’t working so well. Yesterday I’ve sent Big Dragon (8A) at Petit Bois, a small but beautiful spot. In November last year I teamed up with my British boulder buddy Nathan Phillips to give it a try. Weiterlesen →
Today I was able to send “The Elder Statesman” (9a) at Rotenstein in Northern Frankenjura which is just some footsteps away from “The Essential” (9a) at Luisenwand.
The Elder Statesman is the direct version into “The Last Rites” (8c+) I’ve sent some days ago when Ruben sent The Essential too. It is the boulder at the start which adds one grade. There is one tiny crimp for the left hand from where You have to catch a three finger pocket. This move is quite hard. The upper part is the same climbing.
The temps are cold right now (around 5 degrees C) and I had to struggle with numb fingers again. Besides this the climbing felt easy today. It could be a soft 9a.
If a project is ticked, the next one’s waiting! I am motivated.
Last weekend Ruben went direction south to meet up with David and to try some projects which they couldn’t finish last fall holiday at the “Luisenwand” and “Rotenstein”. Ruben had been already pretty close to send “The Essential” (9a) and after one day of getting back into the route he did it. It’s his second 9a after “Era Vella” in Spain and his first in the Frankenjura. The send was unexpected because of rainy and foggy weather but fortunately the rock was almost dry. Just the top-out was a little wet but still climbable. For Ruben the crux consists of a dead-point-move at the second bolt. He is really happy that he was finally able to climb this beautiful, short and bouldery line on pockets. Weiterlesen →
David in the men’s final route (c) Thomas Schermer (DAV)
David has achieved the second place in the final German Lead Cup of this season in Berlin last weekend. The overall ranking (after Darmstadt and Neu-Ulm) corresponds to the German Championships for the seniors and the juniors at the same time. David has become the winner in both categories. The comparable applies to Ruben as the winner of the German Youth Lead Cup in Berlin and the overall ranking in the Youth A category. We both are very happy about it Weiterlesen →