Today I was able to send “The Elder Statesman” (9a) at Rotenstein in Northern Frankenjura which is just some footsteps away from “The Essential” (9a) at Luisenwand.
The Elder Statesman is the direct version into “The Last Rites” (8c+) I’ve sent some days ago when Ruben sent The Essential too. It is the boulder at the start which adds one grade. There is one tiny crimp for the left hand from where You have to catch a three finger pocket. This move is quite hard. The upper part is the same climbing.
The temps are cold right now (around 5 degrees C) and I had to struggle with numb fingers again. Besides this the climbing felt easy today. It could be a soft 9a.
If a project is ticked, the next one’s waiting! I am motivated.
Last weekend Ruben went direction south to meet up with David and to try some projects which they couldn’t finish last fall holiday at the “Luisenwand” and “Rotenstein”. Ruben had been already pretty close to send “The Essential” (9a) and after one day of getting back into the route he did it. It’s his second 9a after “Era Vella” in Spain and his first in the Frankenjura. The send was unexpected because of rainy and foggy weather but fortunately the rock was almost dry. Just the top-out was a little wet but still climbable. For Ruben the crux consists of a dead-point-move at the second bolt. He is really happy that he was finally able to climb this beautiful, short and bouldery line on pockets. Weiterlesen →
David in the men’s final route (c) Thomas Schermer (DAV)
David has achieved the second place in the final German Lead Cup of this season in Berlin last weekend. The overall ranking (after Darmstadt and Neu-Ulm) corresponds to the German Championships for the seniors and the juniors at the same time. David has become the winner in both categories. The comparable applies to Ruben as the winner of the German Youth Lead Cup in Berlin and the overall ranking in the Youth A category. We both are very happy about it Weiterlesen →
Today I’ve sent “The Essential” (9a) at Luisenwand in Frankenjura which was first climbed by Markus Bock in 2008. It’s a short bouldery route on small pockets and crimps. It actually comes down to approx. 8 meters of hard climbing.
Right at the 2nd bolt I took several gastons and thumb holds in weird angles. It is very special and definitely the hardest passage of the route for me. It finishes with a deadpoint move where I cross over into a two finger pocket while I’m really stretched with my body. When I figured out the moves I thought it is so hard just because of the bad holds but in the end I realized that it’s about the right body position. When I extruded my right leg it felt more in control and doable. Just a tiny difference makes it work. Weiterlesen →
After the first German Lead Cup in Darmstadt we both were staying at home in Hanover until the second cup in Neu-Ulm last weekend. For David it was time to rest and recover a little bit from all the traveling before. Since April he has been on the road. Ruben went to school dealing with a marathon of exams before the teachers let him go for a two weeks fall holiday. Weiterlesen →
Already working together a couple of months Haglöfs now officially issued a press release about our partnership.
Haglöfs is a Swedish brand to create outstanding products being in line with a 100 years history of manufacturing. Being one of the best outdoor brands in the world Haglöfs ideally meets our needs as ambitious climbers to highly perform under any weather conditions.
It was a colorful mix of adventure, climbing and traveling with very different and inspiring people from all around the world like from Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Canada, USA, Mexico, Brazil and many European countries with all their own stories to tell. Weiterlesen →
The first German Lead Cup of this year has been a great event held in Darmstadt near Frankfurt. On last saturday there were the lead qualifs of the youth categories followed by the speed youth comp. On sunday it was the adults’ turn (qualifs + finals) with the youth lead finals in between.
Ruben was preparing himself with intense lead training in Hanover and Hamburg besides working for several exams at school. It’s his last year in highschool. So it becomes time-consuming and of course stressful. David just came back from the Petzl Roctrip 2014 making its way from Romania to Turkey via Bulgaria, Mazedonia and Greece within 40 days with 10 different base camps (more news to come here!). So recently he has been climbing on the rocks. Weiterlesen →
Last year I made an interview (in german) with the austrian climber Jürgen Reis who is also owner of the biggest climbing podcast platform in Europe. He interviewed me just before I did “Era Vella” (9a) in Spain 2013 and asked me mainly questions about my training in my upcoming hypertrophy stage. Check it out and enjoy!
Recently I´ve been to Kalymnos (a Greek island) with my girlfriend Camille Masseran and her parents. Kalymnos is well known for its great limestone climbing on tufas and the “North Face Climbing Festival” which takes place there every year. The Island is special for its dry but beautiful landscape and small villages from where you always have a great view of the clear sea and the cliffs above. Climbing in Kalymnos is possible even in the summer because I’ve experienced that in the big caves the conditions are good in the shade in the morning. Weiterlesen →