Ascending “Action Directe” in the past and today


David in the “flight phase” on one of the world most famous climbing moves – the first jump from mono to finger pocket of Action Directe (c) Lars Scharl

Please, find the original article on the website of The Circuit Climbing!

Wolfgang Güllich and Action Directe

With the first ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura Wolfgang Güllich introduced a new dimension to climbing. During the years before, he had already revolutionized the difficulty levels. In 1984, he climbed the worldwide first 8b, “Kanal im Rücken” in Altmühltal. And in 1987, he also sent the world’s first 8c, “Wall Street”, in Frankenjura.

Taking difficulty to the next level in 1991, Action Directe became the test piece for the world’s climbing elite. At first Güllich assessed it UIAA XI, corresponding to 8c+/9a on the French scale. But then, during the following years, the climbing community agreed to make it a gold standard for the 9a level. Even today it is considered a very special route. Many world class climbers found it a hard nut to crack.

However, Action Directe might not have been the first 9a. Weiterlesen

2016 – the year in review

Thank you Escaladrome Blockwerk Hannover for the amazing support in 2016! We really enjoyed the time throughout the season. Especially our HardMoves Boulder League Team from Hanover with the best fans we could imagine!

We hope you also like the short article and the pics down below. They were originally published on the Hompage of the Escaladrome. We have translated the text into English as we believe it gives a good summary about our climbing achievements in 2016. For more details please click to our Instagram, Facebook, YouTube or 8a.nu (David, Ruben) accounts.

Let’s crush together in 2017!

From North to South and setting high



By Simon Lenke, David Firnenburg and Susanne Lieberknecht

Despite their young age, David and Ruben Firnenburg already belong to the climbing elite. No matter if it is bouldering or sport climbing, on rock or at competition, their name is often ranked top in the end. In recent years, the two native Hanoverians have achieved national and international success in climbing. Weiterlesen

Petzl Junior Rock Camp in Frankenjura

Training Café Kraft

Training at Café Kraft with Dicki & Patrick from Gimme Kraft

The Petzl Junior Rock Camp in the Frankenjura was a new experience for us. This time it was all about some of the most motivated young guns from all over Germany who we could accompany for some days.

On our first day we went to Café Kraft in Nuremberg, meanwhile one of the most known boulder gyms in Germany. Every athlete got attached to a group of teenagers so that we attended approx. 15 kids each. In total there were around 50 youngsters who completed an individual training program. The boys and girls had the chance to meet and train with Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb who are known for publishing the classic training book called Gimme Kraft. The main training content was individual goal setting for competition and rock climbing as well as proper warm-up routines and specific boulder training in groups. After a recreative lunch break training continued with circle work outs. At the end the ones who still had some energy left in their arms could try the unfinished boulder problems of the pre-rounds on their own. Weiterlesen

Firnenburgbrothers – Video Portrait

Finally!!! We are very happy to announce that our first professional film is online. In this 10 minutes film we get portrayed talking about how everything started, our passion for climbing, the experiences we made, training, competition and rock climbing and many other things. During the film we climb “The Essential” (9a) in Frankenjura while testing Vertics.Sleeves, one of our hardest co-ascents on a rope to date. We don’t want to say too much here. Follow the link below and enjoy ;-) Cheers David & Ruben

Link: The Firnenburg Brothers climbing “The Essential” (9a)

David’s plans for the rest of the year

Invitation "Red Bull High Five"

Invitation “Red Bull High Five”

After coming back from the Rocklands, South Africa (Scorecard) by begining of August David will participate in Red Bull Five Blocks which is held in Galtür Silvapark in Austria.

Following the Boulder Worldcup in Munich David will instruct younger climbers on the Petzl Junior Rock Camp in Frankenjura. Weiterlesen

Black Label (9a) in Frankenjura

At Schneiderloch: (1) Burn for You (2) Corona (3) Black Label (4) Pantera

At Schneiderloch: (1) Burn for You (2) Corona (3) Black Label (4) Pantera

Two days ago I was able to send Black Label (9a) at Schneiderloch (Ailsbach-Valley) in Frankenjura. It’s a new route by Markus Bock in 2013 which had only seen one repeat by Alex Megos last year. Now I have secured the 3rd ascent of this test piece.

During a comp last year Markus Jung recommended it to me. He was talking about the moves and I became excited to try it. After the comp was over I put it on my tick list and when I’ve headed to Nuremberg to live there for a while it became very close. I just had to wait for the right moment to try it. Around the Easter holiday my brother Ruben visited me and we drove out to the crag to give it the first tries. Weiterlesen

The Elder Statesman (9a) in Frankenjura

Today I was able to send “The Elder Statesman” (9a) at Rotenstein in Northern Frankenjura which is just some footsteps away from “The Essential” (9a) at Luisenwand.

The Elder Statesman is the direct version into “The Last Rites” (8c+) I’ve sent some days ago when Ruben sent The Essential too. It is the boulder at the start which adds one grade. There is one tiny crimp for the left hand from where You have to catch a three finger pocket. This move is quite hard. The upper part is the same climbing.

The temps are cold right now (around 5 degrees C) and I had to struggle with numb fingers again. Besides this the climbing felt easy today. It could be a soft 9a.

If a project is ticked, the next one’s waiting! I am motivated.

Cheers David ;-)

Successful weekend in the Frankenjura

(c) Ben Ullmann

(c) Ben Ullmann

Last weekend Ruben went direction south to meet up with David and to try some projects which they couldn’t finish last fall holiday at the “Luisenwand” and “Rotenstein”. Ruben had been already pretty close to send “The Essential” (9a) and after one day of getting back into the route he did it. It’s his second 9a after “Era Vella” in Spain and his first in the Frankenjura. The send was unexpected because of rainy and foggy weather but fortunately the rock was almost dry. Just the top-out was a little wet but still climbable. For Ruben the crux consists of a dead-point-move at the second bolt. He is really happy that he was finally able to climb this beautiful, short and bouldery line on pockets. Weiterlesen

The Essential (9a) in Frankenjura

The Essential (c) Louisa Firnenburg

The Essential (c) Louisa Firnenburg

Today I’ve sent “The Essential” (9a) at Luisenwand in Frankenjura which was first climbed by Markus Bock in 2008. It’s a short bouldery route on small pockets and crimps. It actually comes down to approx. 8 meters of hard climbing.

Right at the 2nd bolt I took several gastons and thumb holds in weird angles. It is very special and definitely the hardest passage of the route for me. It finishes with a deadpoint move where I cross over into a two finger pocket while I’m really stretched with my body. When I figured out the moves I thought it is so hard just because of the bad holds but in the end I realized that it’s about the right body position. When I extruded my right leg it felt more in control and doable. Just a tiny difference makes it work. Weiterlesen

2nd German Lead Cup in Neu-Ulm

Ruben in the men final route (c) Marco Kost/DAV

Ruben in the men’s final route (c) Marco Kost/DAV

Video: Hoch hinaus – Regio TV Schwaben

After the first German Lead Cup in Darmstadt we both were staying at home in Hanover until the second cup in Neu-Ulm last weekend. For David it was time to rest and recover a little bit from all the traveling before. Since April he has been on the road. Ruben went to school dealing with a marathon of exams before the teachers let him go for a two weeks fall holiday. Weiterlesen