Petzl Junior Rock Camp in Frankenjura

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Training Café Kraft

Training at Café Kraft with Dicki & Patrick from Gimme Kraft

The Petzl Junior Rock Camp in the Frankenjura was a new experience for us. This time it was all about some of the most motivated young guns from all over Germany who we could accompany for some days.

On our first day we went to Café Kraft in Nuremberg, meanwhile one of the most known boulder gyms in Germany. Every athlete got attached to a group of teenagers so that we attended approx. 15 kids each. In total there were around 50 youngsters who completed an individual training program. The boys and girls had the chance to meet and train with Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb who are known for publishing the classic training book called Gimme Kraft. The main training content was individual goal setting for competition and rock climbing as well as proper warm-up routines and specific boulder training in groups. After a recreative lunch break training continued with circle work outs. At the end the ones who still had some energy left in their arms could try the unfinished boulder problems of the pre-rounds on their own.

On the second day we went rock climbing at Maximilianswand in the area of Krottenseer Forst, known for big classics such as Action Directe (9a) and Wallstreet (8c). After a collective warm-up everybody could decide which route she or he wants to try. Besides easier routes some of the teenagers even tried and projected routes up to UIAA 8+/7a+. It was nice to see that the boys and girls supported and cheered for each other.

The day before we had given some own training advices and shared experiences and now at the rocks we gave them an further insight look at how we work on our personal limit by projecting hard routes. In addition the competent and well experienced Petzl team taught the youngsters how to belay with different belaying devices and how to read a guidebook properly.

Besides climbing in the gym and on the rocks there was always an entertaining evening program with presentations, music and climbing movies for the kids. During dinner or in the tent at the campground the vibes were always good. These evenings gave us the chance to get to know more about the kids and all the other participants such as mountain guides or other invited athletes.

It´s always a big pleasure to share your own knowledge with others. When we remember our first steps while climbing in our childhood it has always been an enrichment to learn from better and stronger climbers. If there would have been a climbing camp such as the Petzl Junior Rock Camp back then we would have taken part at it immediately. We only know such a varied and well organized program from Treffen junger Bergsteiger (a meeting of young mountaineers and climbers in German Saxony) which is rather a competition format compared to the Petzl Junior Rock Camp as a free event. Although we couldn´t stay the entire time it was a lot of fun and we would really appreciate to take part at the camp again next year. Kids rock, yeahhhh ;-)

Cheers David & Ruben

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