Ruben enjoys the view

After the competition in Dornbirn I went to Margalef again for some days trying my project „Era Vella“ (9a) with lots of motivation. The weather was much more convenient than in February when it was too windy and cold.

I didn’t need much time to get used to the rock again and I made good efforts on each try. Every go you do around 100 continuing moves. After just 2 days I felt like I needed a rest day to recover and to start my first „serious“ tries as well as the weather forecast wasn’t that good for the next day. Some jogging and relaxing made me feel good for the coming and when I was on the route again every time I could feel the progress which is the grateful thing on trying such a long route of almost 50 meters height. You always get a bit higher compared to a bouldery route like for instance “A Muerte” (9a) in Siurana where you might fall many a time on one single move which may be quite demoralizing after a while.

At the same crack we met a friend from Poland, Piotrek Schab who was trying „Coma Sant Pere“ (8c+). It was incredible to see him climbing with that much endurance and shaking hands just below the top. Congrats to him sending this nice and long route next to Era Vella.

At the same time I gave my best on every try in Era Vella. It was a hard work but I got closer and closer to send it. On my birthday I really felt ready to do it but sometimes I unfortunately pull myself needlessly down. I fell unnecessarily in the second crux which is personally much easier then the first one in the steeper part of the route. I hesitated redundantly so that I couldn’t get the next crimp. Anyway, I had still enough power to try it once again. To simulate the sending go I made no rest and continued climbing to the top. My big mistake was not to clip the last quickdraw which is really important for a safe fall. As I also didn’t clip the anker because the rope was a bit too short I just jumped in without any thoughts about problems or danger. I smashed hardly on the wall and hurt myself on my right hand and foot. Sending the route was impossible now and I had to realize that it was over. In the hospital in Reus I was really lucky to get to know having no bone broken but it felt really disappointing not to have sent my project although being so close to it.

Now the most important thing is to recover quickly and to start training again. I have to look forward to and not thinking too much about this stupid happening. Comps are waiting and, anyway, I will have the opportunity to send it later again!

I learned that climbing airily is not worth it. You don’t succeed by taking a thoughtless risk of getting injured!

Greez Rubi

Here is a nice explaining video from Pablo Barbero about Era Vella.