Mixed results at WC (L), WYCH and WC (B)

At French Beach National Park (Vancouver Island, BC) – Pic by Ana Tiripa

Indeed, this August there were not so much posts and actual news of our doings because we were travelling from A to B over aprox. two months in a row not being at home. Sadly, we were both ill for two weeks too. Now we are sure that it’s time to inform you about our latest activities and what we were doing the last time. To be short: We were competing at the Lead World Cup in Imst (AUT), this year’s competition highlight the Lead WYCH in Central Saanich (CAN) and the Boulder World Cup which took place in Munich (GER) on 24th and 25th of August. We decide to call this headline „mixed results“ because not everything went well for us this time. A lot of mistakes and disappointments happended but we have to say that after all the new experiences we move on with a clearer awareness of what to work on in the future. We take it easy and keep working on our goals with motivation, effort and fun. Take a look what we have to report:

First of all, two weeks after the European Youth Lead Championships, there was the Lead World Cup in Imst. Seniors contest, another athmosphere, harder routes and different feelings. From David’s side there is not so much to tell you about: it went not so well for him. He did bad mistakes in the qualifiers which ultimately lead to a rank somewhere in the end of the resultlist. He had to fight against mental problems which were a total blockage for him to show off with a good climbing performance although he was in a good shape. For Ruben it went relatively well as it was his first Lead World Cup. He climbed well in the first qualification route having still the possibility to climb into the semi-final. Unfortunately, he had the wrong solution for the crux in the second qualification route and didn´t manage to shift his weight under a slopy volume. Finally he placed 34th which is of course not the result he was hoping for but overall he is happy because he made his first valuable experiences on a Lead World Cup.

However, this year’s competition highlight, the World Youth Lead Championships in Central Saanich (CAN), was still waiting for us and we were curious how it will be and how a new continent we have never been before is like. Our previous imagination of Canada were terrific landscapes with big mountains like the Alps, the dark blue pacific and its beautiful coasts, remote islands, neverending ice surfaces in the north like the Antartic and forest everywhere as far as the eye can see. Besides that: Big american influenced cities like Toronto, Montreal, Winnipeg and finally Vancouver which was close to the competition venue on Vancouver Island. This was our first time ever to be in Northern America and we wanted to know more about the Canadian lifestyle. Before we arrived in Swartz Bay (Vancouver Island) the ferry had to make its way through the bays of a wide field of smaller islands with tiny huts and larger holiday homes or private appartments on. That was the real first great experience we had and what we were expecting of the true Canadian nature. Furthermore, we kept things like huge pick-up trucks, big streets, very friendly and open-minded Canadians and a lot of bureaucracy in mind. Also the food was completely different as in Europe.

Ruben in his 2nd qualification route at the Lead WYCH C. Saanich - Pic by Beto Cisneros

Ruben in his 2nd qualification route at the Lead WYCH in C. Saanich – Pic by Beto Cisneros

The competition was hosted at the Boulders Climbing Gym in Saanichton (BC). In the past it was just a tiny lead and boulder facility but meanwhile they built up a huge competition and training wall with a hight of around 16 meters. From outside you can only see a tall tower at the end of a college building. Surprisingly, this college has a committed board with a climbing academy which offers international and advanced programs for students and sportsmen. As every big event more than 30 countries were represented and it was a pleasure for us to meet a crowd of young talented climbers from all around the globe. Not to forget, we think that these young athletes made it possible to support CAC founder John Ellison with his campaign. You could definitely see that it was fun for everyone to maintain him for a great purpose.

The whole contest started with an entertaining opening ceremony where one representative of every participating country had to raise his national flag in front of the audience and team colleagues followed by speeches of the college board, local politicians, natives, IFSC judges and the competiton organizers. An old traditional ritual which is called the „celebration song“ of native musicians and a dancing choreograhpy were a great show too. With this ceremony we attuned to the main event which was starting one day after.

But let’s talk about climbing: David had to start early in the morning as one of the first ten athletes. He had to climb a challenging vertical edge with technical elements which forced the competitors to move their bodies over small and slopy footholds. A final roof at the top should sap the last energy resources of the athletes. David managed to climb the half way up but had to surrender at a long move with a high foothold in a uncomfortable body position. Fortunately, he was not the only strong guy falling there. Ruben’s first qualification was a nice line going up in the middle of the wall. The fact that the route started with really easy moves implied to climb high up somewhere close to the top to reach a top 10 rank. Although Ruben climbed nervously at the start and had some problems clipping a quickdraw he could push himself so that he was able to do some more crucial moves in the run-out of the route placing himself top 10.

The day after, in the second qualification route David overclimbed the resting points with a too fast and hectic climbingstyle and got very pumped in the upper part of the wall. Ruben got the same skatchy slap as David had to climb the day before but managed to get really close to the top.

The same as in the qualifiers before happened in the semi-final: David couldn’t stay calm and wasn’t climbing deliberated as he normally does. In the middle of the route he was actually able to get further high up for 3 or 4 moves but extended with his left hand which was too long to reach the next hold. He knew that the comp was over and he had to accept not to be in the finals of the best 8 climbers like last year in Singapur. Overall he wasn’t that satisfied with a 18th place. He has to bemoan that it was a mental battle with a lot of downs over the last month. He couldn’t climb as good as he normally can. During the event he felt too nervous, insecure and couldn’t find his internal balance. That is the reason why he was climbing too fast and lost his orientation in the routes. His goals are clear now: he needs to get a personal and productive coolness during competitions, needs to get more relaxed and has to find out how to be more self-confident through climbing experience and the right training methods.

Unfortunately, both of the us had no luck that day. Ruben got ill just the day before the semi-final and had to take painkillers against throat ailment. He felt in a good shape but was too confused as he had to solve a sequence with complex moves on slopy holds in the semi-final and slipped off with his feet although he wasn´t that pumped at all. He wasn´t sure if the medicine was wrong or if he just didn´t get the right beta for this sequence. Regrettably, he was very dissapointed and crummy because he knew he could have made the finals.

There is still one event more to inform you about. The last Boulder World Cup this year was hosted in the Olympic stadium in Munich on 24th and 25th of August. This nice looking stadium with its spectacular glass construction on top provided enough space for a large group of spectators which was cheering the climbers up the wall. Certainly, it was a great event for a big city. Because of his respectable bouldering performance in the German Boulder Cup and the Juniors event as well as the second place at the Boulder EYC in Sofia (BUL) this year David was nominated to give a proof of his skills. Tricky and demanding problems at aprox. 25 degrees on a mainly vertical wall made it very hard for David to qualify for the semi-final so that he finished 29th place. At least it was a good experience and it made a lot of fun to dabble in topping out the boulders. It was the acknowledgement for him that climbing performance was getting better in relation to the competitions before. It was also very motivating to know that with a bit more luck he could have been in the semi-final of the best 20 men. Now he knows that he has the potential to be successful in international seniors boulder competitions in the future. Besides David’s achievement big congrats go out to our good climbing friend Philip Ratajcak from Kassel for his amazing performance in the qualifiction round finally placing 4th next to the fact that it was his first Boulder World Cup!

To sum up, there are some competitions left for us in the end of this year. One German Lead Cup in the beginning of October and the Lead World Cup in Puurs (BEL) for Ruben. Subsequently, we will focus on three goals: Rocks, rocks and what else? Rocks! With a grand probability we will go climbing in Fontainebleau in fall and Spain in the the winter times. Our slogan will be now: Work less, climb more, make moves, no war! More posts, services, inclusion of social networks to this website and other stuff will follow soon.

Stay strong and healthy you all! Have a good time while climbing and best regards,

Ruben & David