The Panel (f.l.t.r.): Karl-Heinz Steinmann, David Firnenburg, Andreas Kuhnt, Britta Schweigel, Ingo Leven, Prof. Dr. Semmler-Ludwig, Martin Schönwandt, Prof. Dr. Derecik (c) Andre Bertram

On September 23rd, 2015 David was invited to the podium „Freeride, Parcour, Slacklining: Trend Sports with or without Expiration Date?“ by the Academy of Sports in Lower Saxony (GER). The panel dealt with trend sports and their influence on youth life styles and organized sports (General report in German). David was supported by Axel Hake (IG Klettern / DAV-Landesverband Niedersachsen). 

David explained that sport climbing has exceeded the initial stage of a fun sport towards a trend sport on the way to a well-established sport. There is already a recognized organized, competitional and economic infrastructure including gyms and distribution channels for specific sports products. But compared to established sports there are aspects missing such as an extensive support system for athletes, media presence as an advertising medium and a tourism and leisure economic marketing. While some regions, for example, in the Alps are already further developed in such aspects than they are in northern Germany, on the other hand, however, there are already some of them, such as Arco, that are overrun by climbing tourism with its downsides.

From Hake’s perspective who was invited to the auditorium it actually should be also important, in addition to the opportunities for young people arising from the booming gym situation and the increasing use of artificial climbing walls, to raise the possibilities for climbing in freely accessible natural areas, because they represent, just for the “gamer generation”, a close to daily life available space and a low-threshold access to natural movement experiences. Unfortunately, such freely available natural areas are on the wane in northern Germany. There is still much work to do for sports politics to achieve the potential of the forests fully recognized as a recreational sports resort and important source for youth health and athletic experience of self-efficacy and also personal limits without a social barrier.

Another essential point in the discussion was that the sports clubs and associations should use just the trend sports in the context of school cooperations to win children and teenagers and to bring them „into motion“.

Overall it was a successful event which has commanded a lively discussion with many impulses to continue.

The Auditorium (c) Andre Bertram

]]> http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?feed=rss2&p=2281 0 http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2267 http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2267#comments Fri, 11 Sep 2015 10:34:36 +0000 http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2267 Weiterlesen →]]> Finally!!! We are very happy to announce that our first professional film is online. In this 10 minutes film we get portrayed talking about how everything started, our passion for climbing, the experiences we made, training, competition and rock climbing and many other things. During the film we climb „The Essential“ (9a) in Frankenjura while testing Vertics.Sleeves, one of our hardest co-ascents on a rope to date. We don’t want to say too much here. Follow the link below and enjoy Cheers David & Ruben

Link: The Firnenburg Brothers climbing „The Essential“ (9a)

Flatanger: Hanshallaren cave in the background

Last month we finally had the opportunity to go to Norway for the first time and to climb in Flatanger. There is a huge cave of finest granite which is surrounded by beautiful nature. In addition to the hard routes that we wanted to climb in Flatanger, we also had the opportunity to get to know new friends which graded up our two weeks even more. With an international crew on site, the nature and first class routes in the cave this climbing trip turned out for both of us to be one of the best we ever had. 

The journey which we first estimated a bit complicated proved to be easier than we thought. From Germany we took the plane to Trondheim and from there we went by train, bus and taxi-bus which could be organized simply and reliably. The family „Strøm“, who is the landowner of the “Hanshallaren Cave” and manages the camping site, received us very friendly. We also got welcomed by our Swedish friend Erik Grandelius („Lord Chamberlain“;-) ) with music. The music then accompanied us for the following two weeks which always caused good vibes.

It was new for us that in Flatanger it doesn´t get dark at this season of the year. But that wasn´t a problem. You just go to bed and wake up whenever you want because well it doesn´t get dark

The first week we used to get familiar with the climbing and the rock. The cave in Flatanger is gigantic and we both quickly agreed that it´s one of the best granite climbing on which we climbed until now. There are routes in all difficulties and every inclination. The more difficult routes in the steeper part of the cave are powerful and require a lot of endurance. Partially there is withal crack climbing too.

The first day we tried the very technical route called „Massih Attack“. It´s a must-do 8b in the more vertical part of the cave. After Ruben checked it out once, David was able to flash it right away. Ruben also redpointed it shortly after on his 3rd try. The next days we tried „Muy Verde“ (8c, bolted by Dani Andrada, FA by Erik Grandelius) which we both were able to send within two days. Furthermore David could redpoint „Odin´s Eye“ (8c+). Ruben was also really close to sent it. Unfortunately he got a nasty flapper on his finger when he slipped out of the crux so that he had to stop trying it. In the meantime David was able to crush once more and sent two more 8c´s („Nordic Plumber“ and The Valkyrie“). Ruben wasn´t that lucky. After he had to finish on „Odin´s Eye“ he went on trying a new Link up (8c) of Dvergtrollet (8a+) to the second part of „Nordic Plumber/Thor´s Hammer“. Already on his first attempt he managed to climb up the 50 meters overhanging route until two moves before the anchor. On his second try which was also the last possible try on the last day of our trip he suddenly slipped off right before the anchor. That was kind of pity but a reason more to return some day.

Ruben in Odin´s Eye (8c+), David in „The Valkyrie“ (8c), pics: Henning Wang

The two weeks trip to Norway obviously went down faster than we would have liked it. The people, the culture, the fishing on the rest days and the mind-blowing nature with all its fjords and steep rocks was really fascinating. Last but not least the outstanding climbing in the cave was just fantastic. Thereby we have to mention that there is so much more potential for FAs in Norway and there are some other brilliant areas with hard climbs which we weren´t able to visit yet.

We surely will come back to Norway. Maybe next year we will be able to stay for a longer period of time and to visit all the other hard climbing spots.

Currently David is in the Rocklands (South Africa) for bouldering and Ruben in Switzerland, France, Sweden and Austria to train for the upcoming world cups and international youth competitions.

Thank you Henning Wang for the beautiful climbing pictures!

You can follow us on our activities and ventures on Instagram and Facebook .

Cheers David und Ruben

view out of the cave

view out of the cave

(c) New Base Line – Eddie Fowke (The Circuit Climbing)

This April I went to Magic Wood for a couple of days to work on hard boulders I couldn’t finish the last time I was there. On the very top of my tick list there was New Base Line, a boulder problem which was originally put up by grand master Bernd Zangerl as an 8C. Meanwhile it has seen several attempts by the world’s best boulderers and got downgraded to 8B+.

It is not only hard. It looks also fine. A noble crack line running from right to left with a slight rise through an overhanging wall. In the middle of the wall above the crack line there are nicely shaped crimps and side holds heading up to the top edge. It is just perfect. A dream boulder. This is probably why it is supposed to be one of the best in the world.

The time and work I invested to call the ascent mine was totally worth it. The process of getting better and better on this problem confirmed a lot of things I’ve already learned in my young climbing life. In the end strong will, no doubts and tenacity were the mental skills to send it. I had a very nice time on it and I was very satisfied that I battled my way up this problem although the weather was about to upset my plans with rain and warmth during my stay. I again leave the wood with a bunch of good feelings. I try to come back as soon as possible to get back on the other major lines in Magic Wood. I am already looking forward to it. Let’s crush!

Thank You Eddie Fowke for the nice pics!

All the best
David

At Schneiderloch: (1) Burn for You (2) Corona (3) Black Label (4) Pantera

Two days ago I was able to send Black Label (9a) at Schneiderloch (Ailsbach-Valley) in Frankenjura. It’s a new route by Markus Bock in 2013 which had only seen one repeat by Alex Megos last year. Now I have secured the 3rd ascent of this test piece.

During a comp last year Markus Jung recommended it to me. He was talking about the moves and I became excited to try it. After the comp was over I put it on my tick list and when I’ve headed to Nuremberg to live there for a while it became very close. I just had to wait for the right moment to try it. Around the Easter holiday my brother Ruben visited me and we drove out to the crag to give it the first tries.

The route climbs up the slightly overhanging wall between the famous Corona and Pantera, two other 9th French graded routes. It is the same style of climbing, so pretty fingery on crimps and little pockets. It is around 15 meters high on compact rock which is neither loose nor pretty structured.

You can divide it into two different parts. The first part is a short 8b/8b+ route (around 12 moves long on four bolts) leading to a rest in the middle of the wall. Here the crux is a long move from crimp to crimp with a high foot hold. The clipping is quite powerful too. The second part is a 6 moves boulder problem over a small bulge which is around Fb 8A/8A+ I would say. You take a three finger undercling for the right hand and move to the left to get a three finger side hold crimp. From there You have to stick a long move to a round and open three finger pocket high up right where You have to keep the tension (I could still stand on the holds of the rest making it easier for me, I am around 1,82 meters high, smaller climbers probably have to master the swing of a releasing right leg while moving up – see pic below). Afterwards You put Your left foot on a small hold in the overhang and lock-off to a mono for the left hand. Then a tensiony foot match to catch a bizarre three finger crimp for the right hand. One last hard dynamic move to go to a juggy slot heading on a few more moves to the anchor. To be accurate but that’s already it

Markus Bock in the upper boulder problem – Pic by Jochen Meyer – Source: Kletterszene.com

At the beginning the first part felt quite hard until I figured out the proper beta for me. There are some tiny intermediate holds but I simply couldn’t hold them. Instead I went for the long moves leaving the small ones out  I think what I’ve climbed is the proper beta and also doable for smaller climbers. At the rest You’ve got three good holds. I was mainly shaking my hands on both the right ones although they are worse. The body position is better though. Before the temps were colder. So when I climbed up there I always had to rest until my finger tips weren’t numb anymore. That was a bit annoying because I had to stay there longer than I actually wanted. I still have to struggle with numb finger tips after I’ve done some hard moves on very little crimps in cold conditions. You have to keep in mind that the crag is in the shade all day long. However, now the temps are springlike and warm enough that I didn’t get numb fingers two days ago. The first part became routine because I kept falling three times on almost every single move in the second part. Except the first two moves where I’ve never been falling I had to climb up the first part around 12 times. To finish the whole route I certainly needed around 15 tries. So to speak it was a good power endurance and finger strength training for me. The hardest move was definitely the one from the mono to the three finger crimp right before the saving slot in the second part. Before I started to give it some serious tries I had to get up to that point to especially warm up my left middle finger every time. Otherwise I wasn’t able to seriously pull on the mono (I was only able to put my first phalanx inside it).

To sum up in general: After the work is done and You have received Your present You always start to realize that hard work pays off. And it is even more satisfying if the climb was very challenging for You. It might sound strange but through failure You begin to improve Your performance step by step and You will only find it in the things which force You to try as good as You can over and over again. Actually failure is the key to become a physically and mentally stronger climber. That’s what it means to get out of Your own personal comfort zone. And that’s what to keep in mind!

Indeed, Black Label was a great experience again.

Keep crushing out there! All the best, David

In October last year I’ve been to the Oker Valley to the south of Hannover where I’ve done the FA of a nice Fb 8A boulder problem called Daruma. On 15th of February I re-visited the area with the local Falco Bartus who now published the nice little video above featuring Daruma and some other classics. Thank You Falco! I like it very much.

In the Oker Valley there is still some potential for several FA’s in the Fb 7th range and maybe a few Fb 8th grades. Hopefully I can join the Northern German Rock Climbing Team (Norddeutscher Felskader) who is going to visit the area in March to open new lines again. The Oker Valley is a beautiful bouldering area on brown and coarse granite in the Harz National Park close to the town of Goslar in Northern Germany. More climbers are welcome!

Cheers David

During New Year we’ve been to Ticino for bouldering and repeated some nice boulders in the 8A range. We’ve edited the little video above which shows a couple of 8A’s in Chironico we were able to send together.

It was the first time we haven’t been to Spain over Christmas and New Year’s Eve since a couple of years now. It was bouldering on nice granite instead of lead climbing in long limestone walls in Catalunya. A different feeling. As every time we leave thousands problems unrepeated. That’s why soon we’ll be back in Ticino

Featured problems in the video:
3° Carne (8A)
Rah Plats Plats (8A)
The Arete With The Pocket (8A)
Hineruage/Deep red (8A)
Blonch Addiction (8A)
Willenberg Dach (8A)

Enjoy and CU on the rocks David & Ruben

(c) Ben Ullmann

Last weekend Ruben went direction south to meet up with David and to try some projects which they couldn’t finish last fall holiday at the „Luisenwand“ and „Rotenstein“. Ruben had been already pretty close to send „The Essential“ (9a) and after one day of getting back into the route he did it. It’s his second 9a after „Era Vella“ in Spain and his first in the Frankenjura. The send was unexpected because of rainy and foggy weather but fortunately the rock was almost dry. Just the top-out was a little wet but still climbable. For Ruben the crux consists of a dead-point-move at the second bolt. He is really happy that he was finally able to climb this beautiful, short and bouldery line on pockets.

At the same day David tried „The last rites“ (8c+) at the „Rotenstein“ which starts on the left side of „The Elder Statesman“ (9a) and goes into the same line afterwards. Because of the cold weather and the small crimps David often got frozen finger tips and had to struggle at the top of the route after the crux. To skip a clip was the quintessence for keeping the fingers warm enough and then he did it more or less easily.

Now Ruben has to be focused on school starting to pass the graduation exames soon. After a little rest and if the outdoor conditions will stay stable which isn’t sure yet David will go for „The Elder Statesman“ …

Cheers Ruben + David

David in the 1st qualification route – (c) Vertical Axis

The first German Lead Cup of this year has been a great event held in Darmstadt near Frankfurt. On last saturday there were the lead qualifs of the youth categories followed by the speed youth comp. On sunday it was the adults‘ turn (qualifs + finals) with the youth lead finals in between.

Ruben was preparing himself with intense lead training in Hanover and Hamburg besides working for several exams at school. It’s his last year in highschool. So it becomes time-consuming and of course stressful. David just came back from the Petzl Roctrip 2014 making its way from Romania to Turkey via Bulgaria, Mazedonia and Greece within 40 days with 10 different base camps (more news to come here!). So recently he has been climbing on the rocks.

We both met in Darmstadt the day before and slept in our van in front of the gym. On saturday morning Ruben headed into the gym to give the youth qualification routes a try. He topped both. For him there was no need to go for the speed youth comp because he already competed once in Munich this year and saved enough points (he became 3rd) to now focus on lead and the overall result.

Ruben in the youth lead final – (c) Sportklettern NRW

The sunday was packed with a pretty full schedule. At first lead qualifs of the adults, then youth lead finals and finally the adults‘ finals in the evening. We both qualified easily for the adults‘ final with two tops in the two routes by David. Ruben was the last competitor in the youth finals showing a superior performance with the single top of the resistent and varied final route. Especially a hard sequence at the end with a long move from volume to volume he mastered without jumping but instead statically and with control. The other athletes had already been falling off the wall some moves before so that it can be said that in relation Ruben’s performance was outstanding. Very well done besides the double pressure of school and climbing on high level! The adults‘ final had no single hold but volumes all the way up to the top. The style was rather bouldery with an interval of good rest positions and boulder problems. It was also something new which hasn’t been there before. We probably have climbed the most expensive comp route in our careers ever too Volumes nowadays cost from 50 up to more than 700 or 800 euros (respectively for a single one) and to insert over 20 or 30 of them in a single route is a noble investment. Due to a concentration mistake Ruben overlooked the first quick draw of the men’s final unfortunately getting disqualified. Indeed this wasn’t his intention but once you step over a quick draw with both feet you get disqualified. Never again Ruben! In contrast David caught a fluent climbing flow working himself up the labyrinth of volumes. He fell one move before the saving volume to set off for the final jump to the top hold. It was a tiny moment in which he lifted his upper body a little bit too high up the slopy volume so that he pushed himself out of the wall slipping off the volume immediately. It was only Mathias Conrad who fell on the final jump securing the stage win. Good job, dude! It was close for David because if he would have done one move more to the next volume he could have gone for the jump and due to his better qualification performance he could have won the comp. But don’t worry, be happy! There are two more chances to go for the victory for us in Neu-Ulm in two weeks and the capital Berlin in one month. This time we had loads of fun and we are looking forward to competing soon again

More to come soon. Cheers David & Ruben

- Mens results

- Youth A results

Cheers David