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		<title>When the NADA rings twice</title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2466</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 14 Sep 2018 12:25:02 +0000</pubDate>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2466</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In this article (in German, published in Süddeutsche Zeitung) David argues for a reform of the controversial doping control system ADAMS. When translating the text into English here, David shortened it in some parts and added more detailed information in &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2466">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2467" style="width: 594px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Boulder_World_Cup_Munich_David_Firnenburger_049b.jpg"><img class="size-large wp-image-2467" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Boulder_World_Cup_Munich_David_Firnenburger_049b-600x390.jpg" alt="David climbing semi-final of Boulder World Cup Munich 2017" width="584" height="380" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David climbing in the semi-final of the Boulder World Cup in Munich 2017 &#8211; (c) Frank Brandenburger</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a title="Link to article &quot;When the NADA rings twice&quot;, published by Süddeutsche Zeitung" href="https://www.sueddeutsche.de/muenchen/sport/wettkampfklettern-wenn-die-nada-zweimal-klingelt-1.4103899" target="_blank" rel="noopener">In this article</a> (in German, published in Süddeutsche Zeitung) David argues for a reform of the controversial doping control system <a title="Link to NADA.de ADAMS" href="https://www.nada.de/doping-kontroll-system/adams/" target="_blank">ADAMS</a>. When translating the text into English here, David shortened it in some parts and added more detailed information in some other places.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The controls (urine and blood tests) in ADAMS can be carried out unannounced daily between 6 a.m. and 11 p.m. There ist not enough consideration given to personal circumstances, although the <a title="Link to NADA.de" href="https://www.nada.de/nationale-anti-doping-agentur-deutschland/" target="_blank">National Anti-Doping Agency in Germany (NADA)</a> must be informed months in advance of David&#8217;s daily availability. David has also been announced that <span id="more-2466"></span>in future checks could be carried out around the clock, regardless of his need for rest and night sleep as a competitive athlete and student. And NADA is not prepared in principle to do without doping controls, e.g. during university exams or in the immediate nightly run-up to them.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The &#8222;Anti-Doping Administration and Management System&#8220; (ADAMS) is the NADA control program with which the athletes are located. David is a member of the Registered Testing Pool (RTP), the group with the highest level of performance and is therefore checked relatively frequently. Each quarter of the year, David has to enter his whereabouts and activities for each day in advance in ADAMS. This is almost impossible. In addition, there are from time to time technical access problems to the app and it has already happened that he has been misinformed by those responsible about alleged telephone availability for spontaneous changes when a SMS didn&#8217;t work. David didn&#8217;t get any training or time to get used to the system. If one is not found three times within one year at the indicated place, a ban of two years threatens. The risk is borne by the athlete. It has also happened before that David was ordered back from rock climbing in Ticino at his own expense to German-speaking Switzerland for a doping test and had to leave everything behind together with his climbing partner. Or, that he was late for university duties because the controller was unable to draw blood from his good veins as a climber.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">And David is not the only one who doubts the ADAMS system. French sports federations and dozens of top athletes filed <a title="Link to Wikipedia for further info" href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-Doping_Administration_and_Management_System#Kritik" target="_blank">unsuccessful complaints against ADAMS before the European Court of Human Rights</a> in Strasbourg due to inadequacies in its handling and interference with personal rights. A GPS-supported competitor product for ADAMS would also have existed, but the umbrella organization <a title="Link to wada-ama.org" href="https://www.wada-ama.org" target="_blank">WADA (World Anti Doping Agency)</a> rejected it for data protection reasons. However, the ADAMS system itself is viewed very critically by some data protectors.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">In the <a title="Link to Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV)" href="https://www.alpenverein.de" target="_blank">German Alpine Association (DAV)</a>, doping controls have been outsourced to NADA since 2014 for reasons of independence. Since then, regular checks have been carried out, which have practically doubled since the announcement that climbing will be Olympic in Tokyo in 2020. It is not possible for the athletes to influence how NADA handles the samples. <a title="Link to MDR.de for the article + video" href="https://www.mdr.de/nachrichten/vermischtes/doping-olympia-russland-wada-100.html" target="_blank">A TV research in Germany</a> in January showed that the sample bottles can be manipulated. Reporters had succeeded in opening and closing sealed glass bottles by freezing them beforehand. Philipp Abels, DAV competition climbing coordinator, says that every sample becomes vulnerable like this. The athlete participates in ADAMS, gives up a large part of his personality sphere and the NADA doesn&#8217;t even get it managed to make the rehearsals fair. Dr. Mortsiefer, a lawyer and NADA board member, believes that the biggest challenge in terms of control material safety now is to find partners who invest in the development of new, safer systems. He says he knows that ADAMS is very much in demand from athletes.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The fight against doping is a balancing act between ensuring clean sport and respecting the personal rights of athletes. The World Anti-Doping Code is due to be adopted at the end of 2019. Until then, ADAMS will also be revised. Perhaps in such a way that David&#8217;s personal rights then will be better taken into account&#8230;</p>
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		<title>Ascending &#8222;Action Directe&#8220; in the past and today </title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2397</link>
		<comments>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2397#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Jan 2017 11:08:43 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Please, find the original article on the website of The Circuit Climbing! Wolfgang Güllich and Action Directe With the first ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura Wolfgang Güllich introduced a new dimension to climbing. During the years before, he had &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2397">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2415" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DavidFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_Sprungb.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2415 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DavidFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_Sprungb.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David in the &#8222;flight phase&#8220; on one of the world most famous climbing moves &#8211; the first jump from mono to finger pocket of Action Directe (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
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<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>Please, find the original article on the website of</strong> <a href="http://www.thecircuitclimbing.com/m/EhAKBU1pdGVtEICAgMTG6oMK/ascending-action-directe-in-the-past-and-today" target="_blank">The Circuit Climbing</a><strong>!</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>Wolfgang Güllich and Action Directe</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">With the first ascent of <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe_(Kletterroute)" target="_blank">Action Directe</a> in Frankenjura <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfgang_Güllich" target="_blank">Wolfgang Güllich</a> introduced a new dimension to climbing. During the years before, he had already revolutionized the difficulty levels. In 1984, he climbed the worldwide first 8b, &#8222;Kanal im Rücken&#8220; in Altmühltal. And in 1987, he also sent the world’s first 8c, &#8222;Wall Street&#8220;, in Frankenjura.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Taking difficulty to the next level in 1991, Action Directe became the test piece for the world’s climbing elite. At first Güllich assessed it UIAA XI, corresponding to 8c+/9a on the French scale. But then, during the following years, the climbing community agreed to make it a gold standard for the 9a level. Even today it is considered a very special route. Many world class climbers found it a hard nut to crack.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">However, Action Directe might not have been the first 9a. <span id="more-2397"></span>&#8222;<a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hubble_(Kletterroute)" target="_blank">Hubble</a>&#8222;, in the English Peak District, first sent by <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Moon" target="_blank">Ben Moon</a> in 1990, is also endowed with this mythical grade by some climbers. Initially, it was considered the first 8c+ in the world. A few years later, Ben Moon corrected the difficulty to 8c+/9a or 9a. Accordingly, Hubble would be the first 9a in history.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Güllich himself could not participate in such discussions. He died in 1992 after a tragical car accident. If he was still alive, who knows to what dimensions Wolfgang Güllich would have taken sport climbing. A climbing idol par excellence for the generation of the 1980s, he still remains a role model up to this day.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Bolted by <a href="http://www.freiklettern-podcast.de/fk19/" target="_blank">Milan Sykora</a>, Action Directe is about 15 meters long. It runs through a 45 degree overhanging rock formation and &#8211; depending on the chosen beta &#8211; consists of 13 – 19 moves beginning with a characteristic and famous dyno from a mono into a sharp two finger pocket.</p>
<div id="attachment_2416" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_11b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2416 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_11b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hitting the two-finger-pocket on the first jump-move of Action Directe (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">During my ascent, I chose a way to ease the mono. I took exactly the same pocket with my left ring finger, but then piled my middle and index finger on it and let them hang down. This way, it felt more like a three finger pocket.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The initial dyno into the sharp two finger pocket is followed by a passage with extreme lock-offs on small finger pockets. Then there are technically complicated side holds and pinches with difficult foot changes before you run out with a tricky to hit crimp at the very end, where I still fell several times before sending.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The name of the route refers to the French terrorist group &#8222;Action directe&#8220;. With this name, Güllich symbolically wanted to point to the terror attack of the route on the finger joints.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Actually, Wolfgang Güllich was also the pioneer who invented the campus board to train for the special requirements of such routes. He trained his finger power on this special wooden board with small crimps, on which he constantly bounced upwards on single fingertips.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Finally, he needed 11 climbing days in the route, spread over three weeks, until &#8211; 25 years ago &#8211; he managed to send the route in free climbing style. This was not much time compared to how long it takes many top climbers nowadays to perform a project on their personal limit. Therefore, Action Directe certainly would not have been Wolfgang&#8217;s most difficult sport climbing legacy, if he would not have died that early.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>First repetition by Alexander Adler in 1995 and further ascents<br />
</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The early repeaters also had to train specifically for the route, because it was &#8222;a whole new kind of contactless climbing&#8220;, as <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=570q2xiyWy8" target="_blank">Alexander Adler</a> stated. The winter before, Alex began with a consistent and very intensive finger and muscle training. He climbed and exercised with a lot of body weight until summer. One month before sending, Alex was more or less constantly on the route, until he could master it after weight reduction.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Alex, today living in Dresden where he runs a climbing gym, gave a CD with a TV broadcast about his ascent of Action Directe to my brother Ruben and me when we were about 10 and 12 years old and visiting his climbing gym. Watching this, we were so impressed that we also wanted to climb this legendary route one day.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurt_Albert" target="_blank">Kurt Albert</a> was, besides Güllich, another former iconic Frankenjura climber. With the title “<a href="https://www.amazon.de/Fight-Gravity-Klettern-im-Frankenjura/dp/3930650150" target="_blank">Fight Gravity</a>” he published in 2005 a book about sport climbing in Frankenjura. In this book Alex Adler also describes his impressions (translated by D.F.):</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><i>&#8222;The second ascent of Action Directe undoubtedly represents a borderline in my life. For me it is the most difficult route I ever climbed. It demanded far more than my repetition of Wall Street or any other similar difficult routes. From the beginning &#8211; when I did not try Action Directe yet, but watched the others checking it out &#8211; I was thrilled by the sequence of the moves. When I then tried it myself, I went back again and again to just climb one single move even more optimally. In the end, I was engrossed so far by this route that I climbed nothing else, except for some warm-up routes. I was completely focused on the thirteen moves during the last three weeks before the ascent. Almost to the end, I went there with the idea of never being able to climb through. As I rehearsed the route top down to master the run out perfectly in case of getting through, I left the dynamic entry to the end. I knew that this was primarily a matter of maximum coordination. When I then devoted myself to the initial jump one and a half weeks before the ascent, I was at first surprised that I had fewer problems than expected. At this point, I could imagine the possibility of getting through for the first time. But during the next few days the well-known problem began, which many of us know by experience: when the moment of the successful ascent is coming closer and closer, the head blocks out, the psyche strikes. The initial dyno, which I firstly did not regard that difficult, became a &#8222;head killer&#8220;. Sometimes the jump worked at the first attempt, but then I fell nervously just before the last moves. Another time I made five jumps to grasp at nothing.</i></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><i>So, there came September 13</i><i><sup>th</sup></i><i>, 1995, a day with worst conditions. It rained the day before. And then the temperatures rose to 24 degrees centigrade. When I came to the “Waldkopf”, the rock where Action Directe is situated, after my obligatory warm-up on the nearby rock “Rotenfels”, a catastrophic picture was waiting for me: the entire entry of the route was wet. Disappointed, I said to my girlfriend, I would like to use the day again as a training day and try to do a few attempts without pressure. In this weather I did not expect any chance to succeed in the route. After I had put some tin foil on the wet jumping-off point, I made the first attempt. The climbing shoes remained dry, but the foil did not remain. Finally, the jump succeeded at the second attempt and I was able to climb to the penultimate move. Surprisingly, in my next attempt I could manage to do the jump right away and I arrived well to the hold, where I otherwise had often failed. For a moment I thought I was getting through, but my left foot slipped from the hold and, well, that was it. I then took a longer break again. The third attempt really was only supposed to be for training and to re-collect the quick draws. But nevertheless, I wanted to have a try again. The initial jump succeeded right away. On the last clip I rested a few seconds before the finger became numb in the pocket, and, I was off then: crimp, side hold, two finger pocket &#8230; At that moment I realized that I was above my obligatory &#8222;drip-off point&#8220; and I started to fight. Cross over, dissolving, crimp, and not getting lost in thought before the last move. Sideundercling and &#8230; exit move.  The rest was like in a trance. After that, I needed a lot of time to process everything. A dream came true and yet the time, when everything was still a dream, was the best.&#8220;</i></p>
<div id="attachment_2417" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_06b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2417 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_06b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Falling nine times on the very last move is part of the game (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1Xc08-TcNw" target="_blank">In spring 2016, ten of the previous repeaters of Action Directe came together in Frankenjura on occasion of the 25<sup>th</sup> anniversary of Güllich’s first ascent and discussed their experiences.</a> <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos" target="_blank">Alex Megos</a> reported that Alex Adler was the only one who had climbed the route in exactly the same moves like Güllich. All others would have used holds to the left or right. Impressively, Alex Megos himself managed to send the route in May 2014 in just two hours.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The route has been climbed 21 times in total now, including my own ascent. One ascent is discussed controversially. During the first 12 years, only three more climbers next to Güllich and Adler managed to repeat the route. From 2005 onwards the frequency increased, possibly because of the generally improved training conditions. Although women have been able to cope with the 9<sup>th</sup> French grade for several years, none of them yet was able to do Action Directe. It will be exciting to see in the next few years who will be the first. Some have already begun to meet this challenge and to try Action Directe.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>My ascent of Action Directe in October 2016</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">After my competition season 2016, which went very successfully with semifinal and final results in the World Cups as well as an overall bronze medal at the World Championships in Paris, I was psyched again for hard rock climbing. Action Directe was one of my open projects.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Due to <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/2016/10/04/between-lecture-room-competition-and-rock/" target="_blank">my obligations in my studies</a> at the <a href="http://www.uzh.ch/de.html" target="_blank">University of Zurich</a>, I was forced to complete a lower volume in the training sessions than I was used to during the competition season before. I took the training easier. I put my focus on short and qualitative training sessions with short boulders on pockets and crimps, longer 20 moves maximum strength endurance boulders, finger and maximum strength as well as explosive power on the finger and campus board. I wanted my finger joints and tendons to get used to the extreme stresses and strains in Action Directe and build up a sufficient muscle tone in my fore arms.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Since I committed myself to my studies during week days, I shifted my travels to Frankenjura to the weekends. From Zurich, that is 500 km forth and 500 km back. All in all, I drove almost 4000 km to climb the route.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I first tried Action Directe the year before, partly with <a href="http://www.climbing.de/news/sportklettern/julius-westphal-wiederholt-action-directe-11-46832.html" target="_blank">Julius Westphal</a>, when I spent some time climbing and training in Frankenjura. So I already knew what I would have to go through. Back at the time, my high point in the route was at the last quick draw. I realized that I still had a certain deficit of maximum strength and endurance and I was forced to stop trying it because of the still running competition season.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">One year later, I came back with a higher maximum strength level. The successful training with my coach, <a href="https://ch.linkedin.com/in/urs-st%25C3%25B6cker-b8818a2b" target="_blank">Urs Stöcker</a> in Zurich, played a decisive role in my improvement of climbing this year.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I needed the first weekend in the route to get used to the small holds and therewith stress and strains on my fingers. Throughout the whole season I trained and climbed on mostly ergonomically shaped holds and my fingers weren’t really used to pulling hard on monos and two finger pockets which are only rarely set in competition climbing. On that first weekend, I already reached my high point from the previous sessions the year before. I felt optimistic.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">On the second weekend, I showed a significant progress although I fell three times at the last hard move to the saving hold at the very end of the route. This gave me an extra motivational boost to finally send it the weekend after.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">However, during the following third weekend, I failed to finish the route. Another four falls on the last hard move left me behind disappointed and frustrated. I also started to doubt if I could still finish the route, because it seemed to be a much too limited time regarding the upcoming cold and wet autumn of Frankenjura. I accessed it bottom-up. Was I about to get the same „head killer” at the top of the route like Alex Adler described it for the first dynamic move during his top-down trials?</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I wanted to keep pushing through and not give up, coming back a couple of days later, mentally even stronger, relying on myself and not losing hope for an ascent still this year. Arriving, though, there were even more difficulties with the weather. A sudden high above Southern Germany with warm temperatures of almost 20 degrees centigrade and water condensation on the still cold rock led to completely wet conditions in the route.</p>
<p>Luckily, not all was lost. I still got another chance a couple of days later when weather and autumn in Frankenjura showed themselves of their friendlier sides with dry and cool conditions. On the first day of the fourth weekend (Saturday, October 29<sup>th</sup>) I fell once again at the last hard move. Subsequently, in visualizing the route, I tried not to think about every single move, but focused on the changes that I had considered necessary to be able to get through. These were a certain move in the middle of the wall and the exact execution of the last hard move with a modified closure for a crimp with my left hand. This mental attitude &#8211; do not think too much, do not make it more complicated than it is, concentrate on the essentials and simply go through, you are able to do it, simply wrap it up and just tick it &#8211; was probably the crucial factor for this successful ascent on the second go of that day.</p>
<p>During my following go, I did not reflect much, but was attentive and focused. I did not make mistakes while climbing the route. On one hand, I was sufficiently relaxed and on the other hand, also sufficiently tense, determined, accurate and speedy on the way. I breathed deeply several times and finally managed to stick the very last hard move. Frankly, I was a bit surprised and had already seen me hanging in the rope again. It had become way of mental routine and expectation in the sessions before to fall there every time I got up there. Clipping the anchor this time all the way right from the bottom was a great relief and satisfaction. Immediately, an intense feeling of joy and pride came up.</p>
<div id="attachment_2418" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_13b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2418 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_13b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">One of the moves in the middle of the route where David had to be very focused to hit the pocket right (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
<p>Overall, I returned stronger to the route than the year before. I struggled with the weather conditions and had to prove mental endurance, will and perseverance. Through the long road trips and the consecutive time expenditure, I had to accept some shortfalls in my studies, but could reward myself in the end with the ascent. As the route still held me back a little while, taxed my patience and challenged me, the success was even sweeter. I am proud that I managed to make my dream come true of climbing this famous and difficult route ever since I first heard about it and all the stories around Wolfgang Güllich and Alex Adler’s second ascent which I had seen in the old film recording as well as those of other strong and world famous climbers.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Today the ascents seem to be faster. On the one hand, a certain mitigation has occurred by different betas with more holds to the right and left of the original line being used. On the other hand, climbers nowadays arrive with a higher level of physical fitness due to improved training possibilities with higher climbing limits up to 9b+. Although, this might reduce a psychological hurdle, as climbers might be more confident to tackle climbs in the 9th French grade, it seems to me that some other psychological challenges still remain the same like the respect for the status of this prestigious route, pressure and expectations as well as “head killers” at the moment right before you get successfully through.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>Acknowledgment</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I am grateful to Franz Kaiser, a good climbing friend, who is studying in Erlangen, for his hospitality, his time in belaying me and above all his encouragement when the last hard move did not want to work several times. With such a sportive challenge, you simply need such an active support. It is impossible without it. Last but not least, his mobile finger board helped me very much to warm-up my fingers specifically for the route. Without it, perhaps it would not have worked.</p>
<p>By the way, the original video recording of my ascent of Action Directe will be uploaded here soon. To be continued&#8230;</p>
<div id="attachment_2419" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_04b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2419 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_04b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Mastering the body swing which sets in when sticking the pocket on the first jump-move (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
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		<title>2016 &#8211; the year in review</title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2382</link>
		<comments>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2382#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Jan 2017 22:28:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Allgemein]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Thank you Escaladrome Blockwerk Hannover for the amazing support in 2016! We really enjoyed the time throughout the season. Especially our HardMoves Boulder League Team from Hanover with the best fans we could imagine! We hope you also like the &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2382">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;">Thank you <a href="http://escaladrome.de" target="_blank">Escaladrome Blockwerk Hannover</a> for the amazing support in 2016! We really enjoyed the time throughout the season. Especially our <a href="https://www.facebook.com/hardmoves/" target="_blank">HardMoves Boulder League</a> Team from Hanover with the best fans we could imagine!</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">We hope you also like the short article and the pics down below. They were originally published on the <a href="http://escaladrome.de/vom-norden-in-den-sueden-und-hoch-hinaus/" target="_blank">Hompage of the Escaladrome</a>. We have translated the text into English as we believe it gives a good summary about our climbing achievements in 2016. For more details please click to our <a href="https://www.instagram.com/firnenburgbrothers/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Firnenburg/" target="_blank">Facebook</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqJqzDMCANdrEym_crUUJuQ" target="_blank">YouTube</a> or 8a.nu (<a href="https://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=14130" target="_blank">David</a>, <a href="https://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.8a.nu%2Fuser%2FProfile.aspx%3FUserId%3D16257" target="_blank">Ruben</a>) accounts.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Let&#8217;s crush together in 2017!</p>
<h1 style="text-align: justify;"><strong>From North to South and setting high  </strong></h1>
<p style="text-align: justify;">By Simon Lenke, David Firnenburg and Susanne Lieberknecht</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Despite their young age, David and Ruben Firnenburg already belong to the climbing elite. No matter if it is bouldering or sport climbing, on rock or at competition, their name is often ranked top in the end. In recent years, the two native Hanoverians have achieved national and international success in climbing.<span id="more-2382"></span></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">  At the age of 5 and 6 years, during a family holiday in Northern Italy, they discovered their enthusiasm for climbing. Assisted by their parents and the climbing scene in northern Germany they got to learn climbing with passion. After their A levels they first traveled around the world. A year ago then, they moved to Zurich, Switzerland. Their choice of living in this new place is not a matter of coincidence: &#8222;Here we can combine studying and training very well and there are only short distances to the rock climbing hot spots in the Alps&#8220;, David explains.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">In spite of this big step to Switzerland, they both agree that they will not let disrupt their connection to Hanover over the new distance. &#8222;We will keep in touch with the North &#8211; especially with the Escaladrome, the home and hot spot of bouldering in Hanover, and our family&#8220;, Ruben says.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">For both, the highlights of the international competition season occurred in the second half of the year. Ruben achieved a strong third place in the combined format of bouldering, lead and speed at the Juniors’ World Championships in Guangzhou in November. And David also secured a bronze medal in the same format at the World Championships in Paris in September. The combined triple will be the future competition format of the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020, where climbing will be Olympic for the first time as one of five new sports. Ruben and David are thrilled and see good chances to qualify for this important sport event. But that&#8217;s not all: David just missed the podium at the Boulder World Cup in Munich in summer, but secured a strong fourth place. In September Ruben crowned his competition year 2016 with a victory at the German Championship of sport climbing in Neu-Ulm, where David achieved the third place.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Also rock climbing went very well &#8211; despite the long and strenuous competition season last year. Thus, David could send the legendary &#8222;Action Directe&#8220; (9a) in Frankenjura, one of his proudest achievements so far. &#8222;Topping out „Action Directe“ once in my life has always been a dream for me. This year, on the 25th anniversary of the route, this dream came true“, David says.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Ruben’s big project by the beginning of last year was the long and overhanging &#8222;Selecció Natural&#8220; (9a) in the huge cave of Santa Linya in Catalonia/Spain. Right at the end of the year he started a new try ascending the route, but he had to realize that a number of decisive holds had broken out in the meantime. For the time being, he changed his project to the left and ticked &#8222;Analogica Natural&#8220; (9a) shortly after Christmas. Completely free and self-confident, he then succeeded during the last day of 2016, on December 31th, being finally able to send &#8222;Selecció Natural&#8220;. These were two 9a&#8217;s in just four days. What an end of the year on rock for him!</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Though, for David and Ruben the sports year 2016 began with the famous HardMoves Boulder league event. Together with eight other athletes of the Escaladrome Hanover the two brothers qualified for the final and then took a strong second place in the “Swimming Opera” of Wuppertal. &#8222;The HardMoves is probably the coolest fun competition for me at all. I like it very much that my own performance is not the focus, but the one of the whole team. And the team of the Escaladrome is just great. Everyone is passionate and dedicated, they help and cheer you up the wall, and the fan community from Hanover is simply undescribable. It is always an event full of tensions and emotions. I&#8217;m looking forward to next time! &#8222;, David reports.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">We would like to congratulate and wish all the best to the two Firnenburgbrothers also for 2017!</p>

<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2383'><img width="200" height="300" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/13958155_1167706489971213_3368419887321351222_o-200x300.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="David in spider-style in the semi-final of the Boulder World Cup in Munich 2016 (c) Vladek Zumr" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2384'><img width="300" height="200" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/13995416_681276038690504_8345740735360393861_o-300x200.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="David topping the last final boulder at the Boulder World Cup in Munich 2016 (c) Eddie Fowke" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2385'><img width="300" height="200" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_13-Kopie-300x200.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="David sending &quot;Action Directe&quot; (9a) in Frankenjura (c) Lars Scharl" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2386'><img width="300" height="252" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Gimmelwald-Schweiz-300x252.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="Ruben after the flash of &quot;Trümmelbach&quot; (8b+) in beautiful Gimmelwald in the Swiss Alps" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2387'><img width="199" height="300" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Hardmoves-199x300.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="Ruben topping his super-final boulder above water in the &quot;Schwimming Opera&quot; of Wuppertal in the HardMoves Boulderleague event" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2388'><img width="300" height="300" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/IMG_2309-300x300.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="David and Ruben bouldering in Brione in the Verzasca valley of Ticino in Switzerland" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2389'><img width="200" height="300" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/IMG_2839-200x300.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="David on a technical roof sequence in the semi-final route of the World Champs in Paris 2016 (c) Liam Lonsdale" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2390'><img width="240" height="300" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/JWM-China-240x300.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="Ruben with German climbing team members Max Prinz and Yannik Flohe in front of a chinese temple  during the Youth World Champs in Guangzhou in Southern China" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2391'><img width="250" height="300" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Podium-China-250x300.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="Ruben finished on the third place in the overall ranking at the Youth World Champs in China" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2392'><img width="207" height="300" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Seleccio-Natural-207x300.jpg" class="attachment-medium" alt="Ruben in &quot;Selecció Natural&quot; (9a) in the cave of Santa Linya in Catalonia/Spain (c) Henning Wang/Madskillzmedia" /></a>

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		<title>German Lead Championships 2015</title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2328</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2015 21:29:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Allgemein]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bavaria]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[The last stage of the German Lead Championships took place at Neu-Ulm (Bavaria) last Sunday. As last year, this year’s championships consisted of 3 competitions, in Germany known as German Lead Cups. The first cup was hosted at the brand &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2328">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2329" style="width: 1344px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_1524-3.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2329" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_1524-3.jpg" alt="David in the 2nd qualification route in Frankenthal " width="1334" height="750" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David in the 2nd qualification route in Frankenthal</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The last stage of the German Lead Championships took place at <a title="Climbing gym Neu-Ulm" href="http://www.sparkassendome.de" target="_blank">Neu-Ulm</a> (Bavaria) last Sunday. As last year, this year’s championships consisted of 3 competitions, in Germany known as German Lead Cups. The first cup was hosted at the brand new DAV climbing gym at <a title="Climbing gym Munich Freiman" href="http://kbfreimann.de" target="_blank">Munich Freiman</a> and the second at a rather old but gold climbing gym at <a title="Climbing gym Frankenthal" href="http://www.pfalz-rock.de/cms/webpage.php?site=pfalz-rock" target="_blank">Frankenthal</a> in Pfalz close to Mannheim. For us two it was a nice series with various challenges because the Cups had different route settings.<span id="more-2328"></span></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">We’ve never been to the new gym at Freiman yet so we didn’t have any idea how the wall with its structures and angles would be like. In addition, it was outdoors but luckily it wasn’t that autumnal like now. Usually artificial holds get more slippery when cold. The qualification routes were sustained and demanding. Ruben easily qualified for finals and David nearly missed it with an 8th place. The final was well set but could have been a bit harder. <a title="Facebook page of Jan" href="https://www.facebook.com/jan.hojer.58" target="_blank">Jan Hojer</a> and David fell at the last move to the top but Jan won due to better results in the qualifications. Ruben finished 1st in the juniors ranking and 5th in the men’s category. He definitely could have done better but he hesitated while clipping and lost power and flow.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Frankenthal is a steep and powerful wall and the 2nd cup was set in a very dynamic style with at least one jump in almost every route. The qualifications went well and we both qualified for finals as 3rd and 4th. Unfortunately, the final route was very unsustained. It was maybe an 7c+ climb until a huge jump to the left where almost every finalist fell except Jan who fell two moves later. It is always a pity when one move spits off more or less every athlete so that the pre-round counts for a final result. However, we were close on the jump (David made a foot mistake and Ruben got stuck with his hand in the rope while jumping) and definitely able to stick it so it’s hard to complain. Ruben finished 1st in the juniors again and 3rd in the men’s event which was one of his best results so far. David missed the podium as 4th place which made him a bit frustrated.</p>
<div id="attachment_2335" style="width: 810px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/8E95087A-090D-41C3-B2AA-9625A02612FD1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2335" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/8E95087A-090D-41C3-B2AA-9625A02612FD1.jpg" alt="Observing the final route in Frankenthal together" width="800" height="533" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Observing the final route in Frankenthal together</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Last weekend turned out to be kind of a speed final in a lead final route. The qualification round saw a bunch of double tops with a tricky slab. Regrettably, Ruben fell too early in the first qualification route and got a time-out in the slab. He couldn’t make finals with a 12th place but nevertheless he won the juniors game and therewith became German juniors lead champion winning 3 out of 3 events. And that was also enough to save a 5th place in the seniors championship overall. Pretty good season for him this year!</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Sebastian Halenke was the first to top the final route. And since Jan Hojer, Chris Hanke and David also topped it, it was all about time to secure the victory of the day. David, being the last one to come out of the Isolation zone, actually had the most pressure but eventually it was a tactical advantage because he knew from backstage that the route must be doable and that he had to climb fast. In the end he clipped the anchor by 15 seconds slower than Jan who was literally running up the wall without taking a single rest. A 2nd place in the day ranking assured David of the vice title in the championship behind Jan which was tactically the priority because Jan more or less secured the title already by qualifying for the final. Props to him for a strong performance on all three events and especially to our team mate <a title="Lena's webblog" href="http://lenaherrmann.blogspot.com" target="_blank">Lena Herrmann</a> who became German lead champion after a break of competition climbing and some 8c’s on the rocks lately!</p>
<div id="attachment_2337" style="width: 650px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_0950.png"><img class="size-full wp-image-2337" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_0950.png" alt="Ruben resting at volume in the final route in Frankenthal" width="640" height="1136" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Ruben resting at volume in the final route in Frankenthal</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">We had a lot of fun this year competing at the nationals but from our point of view there are still some things which can be suggested to make lead competition climbing in Germany more attractive. Not only for the athletes but also for the audience. This is why we want to mention some points how to improve the quality of the events based on what we&#8217;ve experienced this year:</p>
<ul style="text-align: justify;">
<li>In our opinion this year there hasn’t been a superior route setting. We would like to have harder routes, especially in the finals. Predominantly, we climbed at a grade of 8a+ but we actually need final routes at a level of 8b+ to be hard enough to separate the finalists. And it shouldn’t come down to only one move which spits the majority off like in Frankenthal or too many double tops even in the finals like in Neu-Ulm. More sustained and harder routes would add value to the events! And this is what awaits the athletes in the world cups. Young talents start training the characteristics of the routes in the lead nationals but this won&#8217;t prepare them to be successful in the world cups later.</li>
<li>We would also appreciate a strong field of competitors next season again. Especially in Neu-Ulm it was nice to see the whole German lead team and the strongest competition boulderers of the country. But athletes must have great reasons to come and compete at the nationals. So far there hasn’t really been an attractive amount of prize money and we think it’s time to raise it. It’s not an economic and rational choise as a competitor to spend hundreds of euros for the travel and the accommodation and to spend a whole weekend of time to maybe collect some prize money in the end to not fully be able, even as a finalist, to re-finance the effort. If nothing changes it is only a matter of time that the cups become less and less attractive for the strongest athletes to come.</li>
<li>We also would like to get rid of all the waiting times during the competitions, particularly when the youth events get integrated into the seniors&#8216; competition. Please, let us seniors compete on Saturday and in a shorter time. Qualification can be done at around midday and finals in the early evening without a long break of several hours in between the rounds. That requires a tight timetable but it&#8217;s definitely possible to organize that. This is also more attractive for the spectators because if they would have to watch finals on Sunday night they would overthink it twice because they have to start work on Monday again. If the finals would be on Saturday night that would have a day in between. And based on a tight schedule they wouldn&#8217;t have to stay a whole day in the gym waiting most of the time.</li>
<li>And finally, meanwhile we know a lot of competitors and their teams, parents and relatives who support them during the competitions. We don’t see so many new faces though. Especially random spectators. It is only a small group of insiders who actually visit and watch the competitions but we think the competition format can be entertaining for a wider range of people. It would be nice to see working live streams and better advertisements in prior for the competitions to reach more people. From our point of view the <a title="Webpage of Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV)" href="https://www.alpenverein.de" target="_blank">DAV</a> (German Climbing Federation) should invest more effort into their event marketing and promotion.</li>
</ul>
<p style="text-align: justify;">That’s it for this year’s competition climbing. We are already looking forward to the next season. Now we are already in Catalonia for some off-season rock climbing. We’ve got some great projects that we want to work on and it&#8217;s always nice to see the big rock climbers&#8216; family from all around the world at the crags again. It always means great climbing together and good vibes. We are excited and keep You updated with our climbing experiences there.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Find the whole result list of the <a title="juniors results" href="http://www.digitalrock.de" target="_blank">juniors</a> and the <a title="seniors results" href="http://www.digitalrock.de" target="_blank">seniors</a> German Lead Championship via the links!</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Cheers D&amp;R <img src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=";-)" class="wp-smiley" /></p>
<div id="attachment_2339" style="width: 3274px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_1625.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2339" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_1625.jpg" alt="Juniors podium overall - 1st Ruben, 2nd team mate Lars Hoffmann and 3rd Paul Hettich (missing)" width="3264" height="2448" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Juniors podium overall &#8211; 1st Ruben, 2nd team mate Lars Hoffmann and 3rd Paul Hettich (missing)</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2338" style="width: 2458px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_1629.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2338" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/IMG_1629.jpg" alt="Seniors podium overall - 1st Jan Hojer, 2nd David and 3rd Martin Tekles" width="2448" height="3264" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Seniors podium overall &#8211; 1st Jan Hojer, 2nd David and 3rd Martin Tekles</p></div>
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		<title>Firnenburgbrothers &#8211; Video Portrait</title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2267</link>
		<comments>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2267#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Sep 2015 10:34:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Allgemein]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[9a]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[david firnenburg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[e4 nürnberg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[escaladrome]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[firnenburg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[firnenburgbrothers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[frankenjura]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fränkische schweiz]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[germany]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[haglöfs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Klettern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lead]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[luisenwand]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mountain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mountains]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nature]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[outdoor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[petzl]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ready4climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ruben firnenburg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[scarpa]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[the essential]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vertics sleeves]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Finally!!! We are very happy to announce that our first professional film is online. In this 10 minutes film we get portrayed talking about how everything started, our passion for climbing, the experiences we made, training, competition and rock climbing &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2267">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Bildschirmfoto-2017-02-17-um-21.40.36b.png"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2436" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Bildschirmfoto-2017-02-17-um-21.40.36b.png" alt="" width="600" height="375" /></a>Finally!!! We are very happy to announce that our first professional film is online. In this 10 minutes film we get portrayed talking about how everything started, our passion for climbing, the experiences we made, training, competition and rock climbing and many other things. During the film we climb &#8222;The Essential&#8220; (9a) in Frankenjura while testing <a title="Vertics.Sleeves" href="http://vertics.de" target="_blank">Vertics.Sleeves</a>, one of our hardest co-ascents on a rope to date. We don&#8217;t want to say too much here. Follow the link below and enjoy <img src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=";-)" class="wp-smiley" /> Cheers David &amp; Ruben</p>
<h1 style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.epictv.com/media/series-home/kingskongss-epic-series/500304" target="_blank">Link: The Firnenburg Brothers climbing &#8222;The Essential&#8220; (9a)</a></h1>
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