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	<title>Firnenburgbrothers.com &#187; Training</title>
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		<title>&#8222;Scarpa Stories&#8220; featuring the Firnenburgbrothers</title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2450</link>
		<comments>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2450#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Sep 2017 19:19:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Recently we&#8217;ve worked with our shoe sponsor Scarpa on a little film showing us training in and around our home base Zurich with our coach Urs Stöcker. We are filmed while training together in the gym, on a local rock &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2450">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Recently we&#8217;ve worked with our shoe sponsor <a title="Scarpa Schuhe" href="http://www.scarpa-schuhe.de" target="_blank">Scarpa</a> on a little film showing us training in and around our home base Zurich with our coach <a title="Linkedin Profile of Urs Stöcker" href="https://ch.linkedin.com/in/urs-stöcker-b8818a2b" target="_blank">Urs Stöcker</a>. We are filmed while training together in the gym, on a local rock project in Amden, Urs is interviewed and we share our personal thoughts about the world of climbing. Well, there is not much more to say about this but to hit that play button underneath to have an own look onto this. We hope You like it and don&#8217;t forget to activate the English subtitles in the player settings. Leave a comment and let us know what You think about it <img src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=";-)" class="wp-smiley" /> Cheers David and Ruben</p>
<p><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UGmTdsKoeOI" width="600" height="400" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>
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		<title>David sends „La Rambla“ (9a+) and „La Reina Mora“ (8c+/9a) in Siurana</title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2421</link>
		<comments>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2421#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Feb 2017 15:15:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2421</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The two weeks trip to Siurana turned out to be a very successful one. After a couple of days of working on „La Rambla“ David could finally tick his first 9a+ ever. And right before leaving he finished the trip &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2421">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2422" style="width: 1010px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/david_firnenburg-17-Kopie.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2422" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/david_firnenburg-17-Kopie.jpg" alt="David before setting off to jump to the next hold in &quot;La Rambla&quot; (c) Iuliia Leonova" width="1000" height="667" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David right before setting off for the famous dyno in &#8222;La Rambla&#8220; (c) <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliet_boo/" target="_blank">Iuliia Leonova</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The two weeks trip to Siurana turned out to be a very successful one. After a couple of days of working on „La Rambla“ David could finally tick his first 9a+ ever. And right before leaving he finished the trip with a quick ascent of „La Reina Mora“, just next to La Rambla.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The trip to Catalonia was originally planned together with Ruben over New Year. But just before David got a foot injury which made it impossible for him to go. So he had to shift his climbing in Catalonia to February.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The main objective of the trip was to send La Rambla. In January David started to train for the upcoming bouldering season. Together with his coach <a href="https://ch.linkedin.com/in/urs-st%25C3%25B6cker-b8818a2b" target="_blank">Urs Stöcker</a> he put up a new training plan in Zurich. Since the trip to Catalonia was actually planned earlier he didn’t train his endurance specifically. Instead<span id="more-2421"></span> he’d done a lot of maximum and explosive strength exercises in the gyms around Zurich and spent 3 days bouldering in Fontainebleau where he did some milestones of the history in bouldering, such as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BPenxgbghGq/?taken-by=firnenburgbrothers" target="_blank">„Karma“ (Fb 8A)</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BPcLyWXgnxZ/?taken-by=firnenburgbrothers" target="_blank">„La Merveille“ (Fb 8A+)</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BPhKj89ADef/?taken-by=firnenburgbrothers" target="_blank">„Partage“ (Fb 8A+)</a>. All of them are very technical and tricky. True Fontainebleau style which everyone knows who has been to this magical bouldering area once.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Well, it was the first time that David has been to Catalonia in February. It is calmer than over New Year (not so many climbers). He stayed in a nice apartment of <a href="http://www.lavileta.net" target="_blank">„La Vileta“</a> which is run by very friendly Catalonian locals, close to the main square of Cornudella de Montsant, the village underneath Siurana. Cornudella is pretty rural, mainly inhabited by farmers’ families who live from the surrounding olive, nut and wine fields. When you go climbing or walk around in the countryside you notice its beautiful landscape and nature. In the karst there are numerous caves. Dry and rocky areas dominate with a low vegetation of herbs, shrubs and pines. There are many rare species of wild animals. Because of their trustfulness robins often accompany you when climbing.</p>
<div id="attachment_2423" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_3141b.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2423" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_3141b.jpg" alt="Dad feeding a robin who came to take a look if we don't make any troubles at the crag " width="600" height="450" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Dad feeding a robin who came to take a look if we don&#8217;t make any troubles at the crag</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Because of its 9a+ difficulty La Rambla has been a new challenge for David. It is a long (around 45 meters), overhanging and technical route. It has got a famous name in the climbing scene. First ascended by <a href="http://huberbuam.de/en/home.html" target="_blank">Alex Huber</a> to a lower anchor and extended by <a href="http://ramonjulian.blogspot.ch" target="_blank">Ramón Julián Puigblanque</a> to the actual top. It first kicks off with a technical crack followed by more powerful and pumpy moves with a unique jump in the middle to a rest before the hardest and most bouldery part at the end.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Some years ago David did already „El Rastro“ and „Broadway“, two lines which share at least half of the route with La Rambla, so that he already knew the lower part. On the first day he once checked out the moves, brushed and tick-marked the holds and gave it a good try where he already fell in the last and hardest part at the top. There are 4 compression moves on round side holds and crimps which easily spit you off when too pumped after around 35 meters of climbing approximately 8c to this point.</p>
<div id="attachment_2424" style="width: 1010px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/david_firnenburg-30-Kopie.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2424" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/david_firnenburg-30-Kopie.jpg" alt="David shaking out his arms before he attacks the redpoint crux of &quot;La Rambla&quot; (c) Iuliia Leonova" width="1000" height="667" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David shaking out his arms before he attacks the redpoint crux of &#8222;La Rambla&#8220; (c) <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliet_boo/" target="_blank">Iuliia Leonova</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">After this good first day of projecting David struggled some days with bad skin (especially the pockets literally ate the side skin of his fingers). Not the best conditions to send hard stuff. During these days he always fell on a certain and probably the hardest move in the route at the top from an open side hold into a small undercling which you have to catch close to your chest after you’ve reached out longly. In the past years such failures (falling on the same move without getting any higher) sometimes awakened negative thoughts and frustration in David. But meanwhile he can manage his mind set well. This time he didn’t really care about these failures and took it easy.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">To be honest, every time you fall and reflect what mistake you’ve done you somehow have a progress in your project. It does not always have to be that you’ve got some moves higher but that you have adapted your beta or optimized your clipping positions and rest points for example. It is actually a failure itself to think that there is no progression at all although you keep on falling on the same move.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">„It will happen sooner or later“ was David’s devise and he kept on trying with confidence and mental coolness. In the end it took him some 6 days of work to finally stuck the last hard move and top out his first 9a+ ever.</p>
<div id="attachment_2425" style="width: 677px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/david_firnenburg-34-Kopie.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2425" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/david_firnenburg-34-Kopie.jpg" alt="Keep smiling although projecting might be frustrating sometimes - that works wonders (c) Iuliia Leonova" width="667" height="1000" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Keep smiling although projecting might be frustrating sometimes &#8211; that works wonders (c) <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliet_boo/" target="_blank">Iuliia Leonova</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">So, La Rambla represents a new dimension in his climbing and now it feels like that there are more years of personal progress in climbing still to come. There must be a reason why the years between 20 and 30 are called „The Golden Twenties“ in climbing <img src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":-D" class="wp-smiley" /> The main task will probably be to keep the mental coolness alive and to work on the maximum strength, mainly in bouldering and in the gym.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Right before David had to leave Siurana to head back home to Switzerland he wanted to use his fitness to dedicate to „La Reina Mora“ which has the same crack start and the same top-out with La Rambla but a more crimpy and sustained middle section. It is the real straight-up on this part of the wall. Falling two times on the last hard move in the end was a bit annoying but he had chosen a not optimal beta and when he optimized this it went down first go of the day and the finish of the trip couldn’t have been sweeter. La Reina Mora might be one of the most beautiful climbs in whole Catalonia.</p>
<div id="attachment_2426" style="width: 2842px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/DSC05714-Kopieb.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2426" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/DSC05714-Kopieb.jpg" alt="David working himself up the crack of &quot;La Reina Mora&quot; (c) Jon Cardwell" width="2832" height="4240" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David working himself up the crack of &#8222;La Reina Mora&#8220; (c) <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jon_cardwell/?hl=de" target="_blank">Jon Cardwell</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">David is happy to return back to Switzerland again to prepare for the upcoming bouldering competitions and rock climbings in Switzerland. University lectures start as well again and it is great to come back home to reload batteries for the next challenges which climbing always has to offer in a brilliant way.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Thanks to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juliet_boo/" target="_blank">Iuliia Leonova</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jon_cardwell/?hl=de" target="_blank">Jon Caldwell</a> for their nice pictures and to our sponsors <a href="http://www.scarpa-schuhe.de" target="_blank">Scarpa</a>, <a href="http://www.haglofs.com/gb/en/" target="_blank">Haglöfs</a>, <a href="https://frictionlabs.com" target="_blank">Friction Labs</a>, <a href="http://escaladrome.de" target="_blank">Escaladrome Hannover</a> and the <a href="http://www.dav-koeln.de/cgi-bin/av.cgi" target="_blank">DAV section Rhineland-Cologne</a> for the amazing support lately. As the Spanish climbers say: A Muerte!!!</p>

<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2427'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/david_firnenburg-6-Kopie-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="David hanging in &quot;La Rambla&quot; in the steep El Pati sector of Siurana (c) Iuliia Leonova" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2428'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/DSC05762-Kopieb-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="David pauses at the rest point of &quot;La Reina Mora&quot; (c) Jon Cardwell" /></a>
<a href='http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?attachment_id=2429'><img width="150" height="150" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/IMG_3122-e1486911319520-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Never forget the selfie shot in front of your project - &quot;La Rambla&quot; is an impressive climb lining up a long and steep wall" /></a>

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		<title>Ascending &#8222;Action Directe&#8220; in the past and today </title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2397</link>
		<comments>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2397#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Jan 2017 11:08:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2397</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Please, find the original article on the website of The Circuit Climbing! Wolfgang Güllich and Action Directe With the first ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura Wolfgang Güllich introduced a new dimension to climbing. During the years before, he had &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2397">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2415" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DavidFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_Sprungb.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2415 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DavidFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_Sprungb.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David in the &#8222;flight phase&#8220; on one of the world most famous climbing moves &#8211; the first jump from mono to finger pocket of Action Directe (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
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<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>Please, find the original article on the website of</strong> <a href="http://www.thecircuitclimbing.com/m/EhAKBU1pdGVtEICAgMTG6oMK/ascending-action-directe-in-the-past-and-today" target="_blank">The Circuit Climbing</a><strong>!</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>Wolfgang Güllich and Action Directe</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">With the first ascent of <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Action_Directe_(Kletterroute)" target="_blank">Action Directe</a> in Frankenjura <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfgang_Güllich" target="_blank">Wolfgang Güllich</a> introduced a new dimension to climbing. During the years before, he had already revolutionized the difficulty levels. In 1984, he climbed the worldwide first 8b, &#8222;Kanal im Rücken&#8220; in Altmühltal. And in 1987, he also sent the world’s first 8c, &#8222;Wall Street&#8220;, in Frankenjura.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Taking difficulty to the next level in 1991, Action Directe became the test piece for the world’s climbing elite. At first Güllich assessed it UIAA XI, corresponding to 8c+/9a on the French scale. But then, during the following years, the climbing community agreed to make it a gold standard for the 9a level. Even today it is considered a very special route. Many world class climbers found it a hard nut to crack.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">However, Action Directe might not have been the first 9a. <span id="more-2397"></span>&#8222;<a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hubble_(Kletterroute)" target="_blank">Hubble</a>&#8222;, in the English Peak District, first sent by <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Moon" target="_blank">Ben Moon</a> in 1990, is also endowed with this mythical grade by some climbers. Initially, it was considered the first 8c+ in the world. A few years later, Ben Moon corrected the difficulty to 8c+/9a or 9a. Accordingly, Hubble would be the first 9a in history.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Güllich himself could not participate in such discussions. He died in 1992 after a tragical car accident. If he was still alive, who knows to what dimensions Wolfgang Güllich would have taken sport climbing. A climbing idol par excellence for the generation of the 1980s, he still remains a role model up to this day.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Bolted by <a href="http://www.freiklettern-podcast.de/fk19/" target="_blank">Milan Sykora</a>, Action Directe is about 15 meters long. It runs through a 45 degree overhanging rock formation and &#8211; depending on the chosen beta &#8211; consists of 13 – 19 moves beginning with a characteristic and famous dyno from a mono into a sharp two finger pocket.</p>
<div id="attachment_2416" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_11b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2416 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_11b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Hitting the two-finger-pocket on the first jump-move of Action Directe (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">During my ascent, I chose a way to ease the mono. I took exactly the same pocket with my left ring finger, but then piled my middle and index finger on it and let them hang down. This way, it felt more like a three finger pocket.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The initial dyno into the sharp two finger pocket is followed by a passage with extreme lock-offs on small finger pockets. Then there are technically complicated side holds and pinches with difficult foot changes before you run out with a tricky to hit crimp at the very end, where I still fell several times before sending.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The name of the route refers to the French terrorist group &#8222;Action directe&#8220;. With this name, Güllich symbolically wanted to point to the terror attack of the route on the finger joints.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Actually, Wolfgang Güllich was also the pioneer who invented the campus board to train for the special requirements of such routes. He trained his finger power on this special wooden board with small crimps, on which he constantly bounced upwards on single fingertips.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Finally, he needed 11 climbing days in the route, spread over three weeks, until &#8211; 25 years ago &#8211; he managed to send the route in free climbing style. This was not much time compared to how long it takes many top climbers nowadays to perform a project on their personal limit. Therefore, Action Directe certainly would not have been Wolfgang&#8217;s most difficult sport climbing legacy, if he would not have died that early.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>First repetition by Alexander Adler in 1995 and further ascents<br />
</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The early repeaters also had to train specifically for the route, because it was &#8222;a whole new kind of contactless climbing&#8220;, as <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=570q2xiyWy8" target="_blank">Alexander Adler</a> stated. The winter before, Alex began with a consistent and very intensive finger and muscle training. He climbed and exercised with a lot of body weight until summer. One month before sending, Alex was more or less constantly on the route, until he could master it after weight reduction.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Alex, today living in Dresden where he runs a climbing gym, gave a CD with a TV broadcast about his ascent of Action Directe to my brother Ruben and me when we were about 10 and 12 years old and visiting his climbing gym. Watching this, we were so impressed that we also wanted to climb this legendary route one day.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurt_Albert" target="_blank">Kurt Albert</a> was, besides Güllich, another former iconic Frankenjura climber. With the title “<a href="https://www.amazon.de/Fight-Gravity-Klettern-im-Frankenjura/dp/3930650150" target="_blank">Fight Gravity</a>” he published in 2005 a book about sport climbing in Frankenjura. In this book Alex Adler also describes his impressions (translated by D.F.):</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><i>&#8222;The second ascent of Action Directe undoubtedly represents a borderline in my life. For me it is the most difficult route I ever climbed. It demanded far more than my repetition of Wall Street or any other similar difficult routes. From the beginning &#8211; when I did not try Action Directe yet, but watched the others checking it out &#8211; I was thrilled by the sequence of the moves. When I then tried it myself, I went back again and again to just climb one single move even more optimally. In the end, I was engrossed so far by this route that I climbed nothing else, except for some warm-up routes. I was completely focused on the thirteen moves during the last three weeks before the ascent. Almost to the end, I went there with the idea of never being able to climb through. As I rehearsed the route top down to master the run out perfectly in case of getting through, I left the dynamic entry to the end. I knew that this was primarily a matter of maximum coordination. When I then devoted myself to the initial jump one and a half weeks before the ascent, I was at first surprised that I had fewer problems than expected. At this point, I could imagine the possibility of getting through for the first time. But during the next few days the well-known problem began, which many of us know by experience: when the moment of the successful ascent is coming closer and closer, the head blocks out, the psyche strikes. The initial dyno, which I firstly did not regard that difficult, became a &#8222;head killer&#8220;. Sometimes the jump worked at the first attempt, but then I fell nervously just before the last moves. Another time I made five jumps to grasp at nothing.</i></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><i>So, there came September 13</i><i><sup>th</sup></i><i>, 1995, a day with worst conditions. It rained the day before. And then the temperatures rose to 24 degrees centigrade. When I came to the “Waldkopf”, the rock where Action Directe is situated, after my obligatory warm-up on the nearby rock “Rotenfels”, a catastrophic picture was waiting for me: the entire entry of the route was wet. Disappointed, I said to my girlfriend, I would like to use the day again as a training day and try to do a few attempts without pressure. In this weather I did not expect any chance to succeed in the route. After I had put some tin foil on the wet jumping-off point, I made the first attempt. The climbing shoes remained dry, but the foil did not remain. Finally, the jump succeeded at the second attempt and I was able to climb to the penultimate move. Surprisingly, in my next attempt I could manage to do the jump right away and I arrived well to the hold, where I otherwise had often failed. For a moment I thought I was getting through, but my left foot slipped from the hold and, well, that was it. I then took a longer break again. The third attempt really was only supposed to be for training and to re-collect the quick draws. But nevertheless, I wanted to have a try again. The initial jump succeeded right away. On the last clip I rested a few seconds before the finger became numb in the pocket, and, I was off then: crimp, side hold, two finger pocket &#8230; At that moment I realized that I was above my obligatory &#8222;drip-off point&#8220; and I started to fight. Cross over, dissolving, crimp, and not getting lost in thought before the last move. Sideundercling and &#8230; exit move.  The rest was like in a trance. After that, I needed a lot of time to process everything. A dream came true and yet the time, when everything was still a dream, was the best.&#8220;</i></p>
<div id="attachment_2417" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_06b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2417 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_06b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Falling nine times on the very last move is part of the game (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1Xc08-TcNw" target="_blank">In spring 2016, ten of the previous repeaters of Action Directe came together in Frankenjura on occasion of the 25<sup>th</sup> anniversary of Güllich’s first ascent and discussed their experiences.</a> <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos" target="_blank">Alex Megos</a> reported that Alex Adler was the only one who had climbed the route in exactly the same moves like Güllich. All others would have used holds to the left or right. Impressively, Alex Megos himself managed to send the route in May 2014 in just two hours.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The route has been climbed 21 times in total now, including my own ascent. One ascent is discussed controversially. During the first 12 years, only three more climbers next to Güllich and Adler managed to repeat the route. From 2005 onwards the frequency increased, possibly because of the generally improved training conditions. Although women have been able to cope with the 9<sup>th</sup> French grade for several years, none of them yet was able to do Action Directe. It will be exciting to see in the next few years who will be the first. Some have already begun to meet this challenge and to try Action Directe.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>My ascent of Action Directe in October 2016</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">After my competition season 2016, which went very successfully with semifinal and final results in the World Cups as well as an overall bronze medal at the World Championships in Paris, I was psyched again for hard rock climbing. Action Directe was one of my open projects.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Due to <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/2016/10/04/between-lecture-room-competition-and-rock/" target="_blank">my obligations in my studies</a> at the <a href="http://www.uzh.ch/de.html" target="_blank">University of Zurich</a>, I was forced to complete a lower volume in the training sessions than I was used to during the competition season before. I took the training easier. I put my focus on short and qualitative training sessions with short boulders on pockets and crimps, longer 20 moves maximum strength endurance boulders, finger and maximum strength as well as explosive power on the finger and campus board. I wanted my finger joints and tendons to get used to the extreme stresses and strains in Action Directe and build up a sufficient muscle tone in my fore arms.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Since I committed myself to my studies during week days, I shifted my travels to Frankenjura to the weekends. From Zurich, that is 500 km forth and 500 km back. All in all, I drove almost 4000 km to climb the route.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I first tried Action Directe the year before, partly with <a href="http://www.climbing.de/news/sportklettern/julius-westphal-wiederholt-action-directe-11-46832.html" target="_blank">Julius Westphal</a>, when I spent some time climbing and training in Frankenjura. So I already knew what I would have to go through. Back at the time, my high point in the route was at the last quick draw. I realized that I still had a certain deficit of maximum strength and endurance and I was forced to stop trying it because of the still running competition season.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">One year later, I came back with a higher maximum strength level. The successful training with my coach, <a href="https://ch.linkedin.com/in/urs-st%25C3%25B6cker-b8818a2b" target="_blank">Urs Stöcker</a> in Zurich, played a decisive role in my improvement of climbing this year.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I needed the first weekend in the route to get used to the small holds and therewith stress and strains on my fingers. Throughout the whole season I trained and climbed on mostly ergonomically shaped holds and my fingers weren’t really used to pulling hard on monos and two finger pockets which are only rarely set in competition climbing. On that first weekend, I already reached my high point from the previous sessions the year before. I felt optimistic.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">On the second weekend, I showed a significant progress although I fell three times at the last hard move to the saving hold at the very end of the route. This gave me an extra motivational boost to finally send it the weekend after.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">However, during the following third weekend, I failed to finish the route. Another four falls on the last hard move left me behind disappointed and frustrated. I also started to doubt if I could still finish the route, because it seemed to be a much too limited time regarding the upcoming cold and wet autumn of Frankenjura. I accessed it bottom-up. Was I about to get the same „head killer” at the top of the route like Alex Adler described it for the first dynamic move during his top-down trials?</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I wanted to keep pushing through and not give up, coming back a couple of days later, mentally even stronger, relying on myself and not losing hope for an ascent still this year. Arriving, though, there were even more difficulties with the weather. A sudden high above Southern Germany with warm temperatures of almost 20 degrees centigrade and water condensation on the still cold rock led to completely wet conditions in the route.</p>
<p>Luckily, not all was lost. I still got another chance a couple of days later when weather and autumn in Frankenjura showed themselves of their friendlier sides with dry and cool conditions. On the first day of the fourth weekend (Saturday, October 29<sup>th</sup>) I fell once again at the last hard move. Subsequently, in visualizing the route, I tried not to think about every single move, but focused on the changes that I had considered necessary to be able to get through. These were a certain move in the middle of the wall and the exact execution of the last hard move with a modified closure for a crimp with my left hand. This mental attitude &#8211; do not think too much, do not make it more complicated than it is, concentrate on the essentials and simply go through, you are able to do it, simply wrap it up and just tick it &#8211; was probably the crucial factor for this successful ascent on the second go of that day.</p>
<p>During my following go, I did not reflect much, but was attentive and focused. I did not make mistakes while climbing the route. On one hand, I was sufficiently relaxed and on the other hand, also sufficiently tense, determined, accurate and speedy on the way. I breathed deeply several times and finally managed to stick the very last hard move. Frankly, I was a bit surprised and had already seen me hanging in the rope again. It had become way of mental routine and expectation in the sessions before to fall there every time I got up there. Clipping the anchor this time all the way right from the bottom was a great relief and satisfaction. Immediately, an intense feeling of joy and pride came up.</p>
<div id="attachment_2418" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_13b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2418 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_13b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">One of the moves in the middle of the route where David had to be very focused to hit the pocket right (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
<p>Overall, I returned stronger to the route than the year before. I struggled with the weather conditions and had to prove mental endurance, will and perseverance. Through the long road trips and the consecutive time expenditure, I had to accept some shortfalls in my studies, but could reward myself in the end with the ascent. As the route still held me back a little while, taxed my patience and challenged me, the success was even sweeter. I am proud that I managed to make my dream come true of climbing this famous and difficult route ever since I first heard about it and all the stories around Wolfgang Güllich and Alex Adler’s second ascent which I had seen in the old film recording as well as those of other strong and world famous climbers.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Today the ascents seem to be faster. On the one hand, a certain mitigation has occurred by different betas with more holds to the right and left of the original line being used. On the other hand, climbers nowadays arrive with a higher level of physical fitness due to improved training possibilities with higher climbing limits up to 9b+. Although, this might reduce a psychological hurdle, as climbers might be more confident to tackle climbs in the 9th French grade, it seems to me that some other psychological challenges still remain the same like the respect for the status of this prestigious route, pressure and expectations as well as “head killers” at the moment right before you get successfully through.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><b>Acknowledgment</b></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I am grateful to Franz Kaiser, a good climbing friend, who is studying in Erlangen, for his hospitality, his time in belaying me and above all his encouragement when the last hard move did not want to work several times. With such a sportive challenge, you simply need such an active support. It is impossible without it. Last but not least, his mobile finger board helped me very much to warm-up my fingers specifically for the route. Without it, perhaps it would not have worked.</p>
<p>By the way, the original video recording of my ascent of Action Directe will be uploaded here soon. To be continued&#8230;</p>
<div id="attachment_2419" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_04b.jpg"><img class="wp-image-2419 size-full" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DFirnenburg_ActionDirecte_byScharl_04b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Mastering the body swing which sets in when sticking the pocket on the first jump-move (c) <a href="http://www.larsscharlphoto.com" target="_blank">Lars Scharl</a></p></div>
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		<title>Between lecture room, competition and rock</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Oct 2016 18:51:48 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[We&#8217;ve contributed our first article to the thecircuitclimbing.com below which is run by Eddie Fowke. He is a well-known and very friendly photographer and writer in the climbing scene and travels to almost every IFSC World Cup around the world. He&#8217;s &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=2367">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2368" style="width: 4109px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/IMG_6165b.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2368" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/IMG_6165b.jpg" alt="In the so called &quot;Lichthof&quot; in the main building of UZH" width="4099" height="3306" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David learning in the so called &#8222;Lichthof&#8220; in the main building of the university of Zurich (c) Ruben Firnenburg</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>We&#8217;ve contributed our first article to the<a title="The Circuit - World Cup &amp; Performance Climbing  Magazine" href="http://thecircuitclimbing.com" target="_blank"> thecircuitclimbing.com</a> below which is run by Eddie Fowke. He is a well-known and very friendly photographer and writer in the climbing scene and travels to almost every IFSC World Cup around the world. He&#8217;s a friend to every athlete in the circuit of rock and competition climbing. We are happy to work with him more often from now on!</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>If you like the article, spread the word so that everyone can benefit from our thoughts about the dual task of combining performance climbing and education in life. There are more articles about more topics to come!</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Anyone who wants to study psychology at the <a title="Homepage of the University of Zurich (UZH)" href="http://www.uzh.ch" target="_blank">University of Zurich (UZH)</a>, has to undergo a packed program with a year-round average of 40 hours per week or sometimes even 60-70 hours during the lecture period – and this within the confines of a public university where there is neither integration nor support of the sports system or athlete’s commitments. This sets a pretty tough schedule for athletes like David where competitive sport training often depends on free space and individual design of the study course, and where training starts to amount to a full time job. “In fact the first year at the UZH in psychology is a screening year. Virtually, they want to clear out every second student. That’s what here is called the assessment year“, David explains.<span id="more-2367"></span></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">To better meet this selection procedure in the dual task of competitive sports and university studies, David already has started as a guest student this spring term, one semester before the official onset of his studies, and has already been working for the foreseeable examination hurdles. “After the assessment year a part-time study with a stretched curriculum will probably be the solution for my time problems,” he says. “Already now, during the guest semester, I have to construct my training around the curriculum at the university. There is no other way”, David notes. He trains seven or eight times a week, each about 3 hours, and he also spends weekend time on national team trainings, at competitions or on the rock. This comes along with additional antagonist training and stretching on two active rest days a week.</p>
<div id="attachment_2372" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/13920568_681270105357764_7037105062347082510_o.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2372" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/13920568_681270105357764_7037105062347082510_o.jpg" alt="David in the final of the final Boulder World Cup in Munich this year (c) Eddie Fowke" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David in the final of the final Boulder World Cup in Munich this year (c) Eddie Fowke</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>Lectures are uploaded digitally</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">It also happens during the lecture period that David has to go abroad for international competitions. However, for the assessment year he intends to stay within the time frame of his university. “At the UZH I have the advantage that the lectures are uploaded in the intranet and it quickly becomes clear what I need to rework,” David says. Lectures aside, however, there are also seminars and other sessions, the material for which isn’t as easy to access.<br />
Additionally David doesn’t always get support from the staff. “There are sometimes acceptance problems on the faculty side. As an athlete, I don’t always get the necessary understanding from teachers for this double load I have”. David’s strategy for dealing with this is to network as widely as possible with other students, to exchange lecture transcripts and material, to jointly cope better with the large amount of learning materials, documentation and tasks set.<br />
“Since I prefer Zurich as my training site for quality reasons, I have to arrange myself with the situation at the UZH. I cannot, without making significant concessions to my training, switch to another or even to a private university, where I perhaps would be treated more like a real customer”, David explains. He sees it, at least partially, as a challenge to raise awareness in the faculty and to contribute to a better understanding for the circumstances of elite athletes.</p>
<div id="attachment_2371" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/IMG_6176b.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2371" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/IMG_6176b.jpg" alt="Besides lectures, seminars and further exercises autonomous repetition and learning takes the most time in the studies (c) Ruben Firnenburg " width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Besides lectures, seminars and further exercises autonomous repetition and learning takes the most time in the studies (c) Ruben Firnenburg</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>“Solid grades will also do”</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">“Sure, it’s way of stress to accommodate university and competitive sports. But I have targeted my studies as well as to increase my climbing achievements. And so I have to grit my teeth sometimes and just to go through”, David states. According to him, clearly, he will not be earning top grades with his brutal schedule, but, in the end, solid grades will also do. It was already the same during my time at high school, when I at least was able to skip the 10th grade for an exchange year at Innsbruck in Austria and finally to achieve my university entrance diploma, too”, he reports.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Admission to study courses like psychology is restricted in Switzerland and in Germany. In David’s case as a German citizen, an admission first to study this subject at a German university is needed for being admitted at the UZH. “I benefit from an agreement that has been negotiated between the <a title="Homepage of ADH" href="http://www.adh.de" target="_blank">University Sports Federation</a> and some universities in Germany”, David explains. This agreement allows some compensation for top athletes in the internal university selection procedure of students. Thus, an admission at the UZH became possible.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>A dual career in the United States might be easier</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">In 2014, a dispute with the students’ sport support system in Germany appeared in <a title="Studentischer Spitzensport zwischen Resignation, Mythos und Aufbruch eine Studie zur dualen Karriere in Deutschland und den USA" href="https://www.worldcat.org/title/studentischer-spitzensport-zwischen-resignation-mythos-und-aufbruch-eine-studie-zur-dualen-karriere-in-deutschland-und-den-usa/oclc/931815761" target="_blank">book form</a>. Ben Bendrich, a former German national basketball player, published his doctoral thesis “Students’ elite sports between resignation, myth and breakup – a study on dual careers in Germany and the United States”. Bendrich concluded that the promotion of sports works better at the universities in the United States. He opined that the contracts between the University Sports Federation and the universities in Germany were laudable, but not specific enough and often not widely known or understood by the lecturers at the universities. And for David, of course, they are not applicable in Switzerland. “But in my case, these agreements at least have helped for my admission to study psychology. Unfortunately, as a foreigner not being part of the national coordination between the Swiss Olympic support system and the UZH, I am now supposed to find my own way of being included at least in a minimal way. Bendrich’s book makes me curious to go for an exchange year to a US university perhaps one day”, David comments.</p>
<div id="attachment_2373" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/13995416_681276038690504_8345740735360393861_o.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2373" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/13995416_681276038690504_8345740735360393861_o.jpg" alt="David finished 4th in the Boulder World Cup in Munich this year (c) Eddie Fowke" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David finished 4th in the Boulder World Cup in Munich this year (c) Eddie Fowke</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>Lack of support for competitive climbing</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">David and his family started climbing in Hannover in northern Germany, where he grew up, but since 2016, David and his younger brother Ruben, live in Zurich.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">“Training possibilities here simply are the best for us. Our coach, <a title="Profile of Urs Stöcker as coach of the Swiss National Climbing Team" href="http://www.sac-cas.ch/wettkampfsport/sportklettern/nationalmannschaft.html" target="_blank">Dr. Urs Stöcker</a>, is also the Swiss national coach and highly qualified. We get along very well together. The results are self-explanatory. After a rock oriented past year our performances in the World Cup this year are getting better again”, says the 21 years old.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Recently David achieved semifinal and final placements in the Briancon Lead World Cup and the Munich Boulder World Cup, and is on track to become all-rounder who is strong in both bouldering and lead climbing and who can consistently perform at a top level at least one discipline in nearby future. “During my youth and junior time I was already several times German champion and also European champion and third in the World Championships. Even within the seniors I have already achieved several podiums in the German Lead and Boulder Championships, including a title”, David says. But despite these successes and some encouraging support from sponsors, David cannot live solely from climbing: his basic livelihood has to be supported by his family. “Without this, the whole thing wouldn’t work”, David asserts.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Traditionally there is only a weak support system for sport climbing in Germany. Where, for instance, elite athletes in other Olympic sports receive on average 626 Euros net per month by the German Sports Fund, climbers miss out. “We have to wait and see how effective a planned strengthening of competitive sports in the German Alpine Association will be, especially in view of Olympic’s 2020 at Tokyo”, David mentions. “Due to past experiences you not necessarily have to be optimistic. It is more way of a stolid affair. And if here essential things do not turn for the better, it will continue to be largely left to chance or heroic achievement of individual athletes and their families in Germany to perform at the highest international level”, David criticizes.</p>
<div id="attachment_2370" style="width: 610px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/14409505_698490386969069_3873703662520147035_o.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-2370" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/14409505_698490386969069_3873703662520147035_o.jpg" alt="David in the lead semi-final route of the World Championships in Paris this year (c) Eddie Fowke" width="600" height="400" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">David in the lead semi-final route of the World Championships in Paris this year. He placed 3rd in the overall category (c) Eddie Fowke</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;"><strong>Perspectives for the Olympics in 2020</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Since David would not be able to live from climbing, a unilateral decision in favour of his sport would turn out to be at high risk. “The sport hero of today may be failing socially tomorrow”, he says. David does not want to end up as a vocational drop out some day because of having only concentrated on his sport before. “I have to ask myself whether it will be worthwhile to sacrifice my studies for top-level sports. In my situation it seems to be reasonable, to invest not only in my athletic career but also in my university education. I therefore have to tackle the problem of coping with the double burden”, David explains.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">The usual way of his older climbing colleagues in Germany is to abandon their sport career the sooner or later and to give priority to their vocational training. “This reasonable decision indeed affects our sport adversely, because like this a sustainable international competitiveness is not to be expected. Realistically I see my chances to participate in the Olympic Games in 2020 more as an outsider. But if I can maintain my joy of climbing and continue also to rely on my capabilities, it doesn’t seem impossible to me to have a chance of taking part at Tokyo”, David ends.</p>
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		<title>Podcast: PowerQuest Interview</title>
		<link>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=1971</link>
		<comments>http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=1971#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Oct 2014 18:58:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[admin]]></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Allgemein]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Era Vella]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[firnenburg]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hypertrophy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Interview]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jürgen Reis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Klettern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Krafttraining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Podcast]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Ruben]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Hey there! Last year I made an interview (in german) with the austrian climber Jürgen Reis who is also owner of the biggest climbing podcast platform in Europe. He interviewed me just before I did &#8222;Era Vella&#8220; (9a) in Spain 2013 &#8230; <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/?p=1971">Weiterlesen <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
				<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_1972" style="width: 3010px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/pq_logo.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-1972" src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/pq_logo.jpg" alt="http://www.power-quest.cc/" width="3000" height="585" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">http://www.power-quest.cc/</p></div>
<p>Hey there!</p>
<p>Last year I made an <a href="http://download.power-quest.cc/PQ-podcast472.mp3">interview</a> (in german) with the austrian climber Jürgen Reis who is also owner of the biggest climbing podcast platform in Europe. He interviewed me just before I did <a href="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/2014/01/08/9as-in-catalonia/#more-1701">&#8222;Era Vella&#8220;</a> (9a) in Spain 2013 and asked me mainly questions about my training in my upcoming hypertrophy stage. Check it out and enjoy!</p>
<p>Greez Ruben <img src="http://www.firnenburgbrothers.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=";)" class="wp-smiley" /></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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