Link: The Firnenburg Brothers climbing „The Essential“ (9a)

(c) – Ben Ullmann

Today I was able to send „The Elder Statesman“ (9a) at Rotenstein in Northern Frankenjura which is just some footsteps away from „The Essential“ (9a) at Luisenwand.

The Elder Statesman is the direct version into „The Last Rites“ (8c+) I’ve sent some days ago when Ruben sent The Essential too. It is the boulder at the start which adds one grade. There is one tiny crimp for the left hand from where You have to catch a three finger pocket. This move is quite hard. The upper part is the same climbing.

The temps are cold right now (around 5 degrees C) and I had to struggle with numb fingers again. Besides this the climbing felt easy today. It could be a soft 9a.

If a project is ticked, the next one’s waiting! I am motivated.

Cheers David

(c) Ben Ullmann

Last weekend Ruben went direction south to meet up with David and to try some projects which they couldn’t finish last fall holiday at the „Luisenwand“ and „Rotenstein“. Ruben had been already pretty close to send „The Essential“ (9a) and after one day of getting back into the route he did it. It’s his second 9a after „Era Vella“ in Spain and his first in the Frankenjura. The send was unexpected because of rainy and foggy weather but fortunately the rock was almost dry. Just the top-out was a little wet but still climbable. For Ruben the crux consists of a dead-point-move at the second bolt. He is really happy that he was finally able to climb this beautiful, short and bouldery line on pockets.

At the same day David tried „The last rites“ (8c+) at the „Rotenstein“ which starts on the left side of „The Elder Statesman“ (9a) and goes into the same line afterwards. Because of the cold weather and the small crimps David often got frozen finger tips and had to struggle at the top of the route after the crux. To skip a clip was the quintessence for keeping the fingers warm enough and then he did it more or less easily.

Now Ruben has to be focused on school starting to pass the graduation exames soon. After a little rest and if the outdoor conditions will stay stable which isn’t sure yet David will go for „The Elder Statesman“ …

Cheers Ruben + David

The Essential (c) Louisa Firnenburg

Today I’ve sent „The Essential“ (9a) at Luisenwand in Frankenjura which was first climbed by Markus Bock in 2008. It’s a short bouldery route on small pockets and crimps. It actually comes down to approx. 8 meters of hard climbing.

Right at the 2nd bolt I took several gastons and thumb holds in weird angles. It is very special and definitely the hardest passage of the route for me. It finishes with a deadpoint move where I cross over into a two finger pocket while I’m really stretched with my body. When I figured out the moves I thought it is so hard just because of the bad holds but in the end I realized that it’s about the right body position. When I extruded my right leg it felt more in control and doable. Just a tiny difference makes it work.

Afterwards it isn’t over. There is still another deadpoint move from a small two finger slot into a two finger pocket which is pretty hard. I never fell there when I’ve tried it from the bottom but I was always close to fall. Today I just fell once at the last hard move of the route. As I fell into the rope I couldn’t trust my eyes. I felt so confident to stick it but I somehow missed the good hold in the crack on a long move to the side. So back on the ground I rested a bit longer as usual, put on the syked-mode and fired this beast off afterwards. That felt great when I clipped the anchor

It’s my first 9a in Frankenjura. Some years ago it still felt impossible to send 9a in Frankenjura but nowadays not anymore. At the moment I feel in good shape and I’m super motivated. I’m with Ruben and he is also working on it. It already looks pretty good and I think he is close to send it too. We’ve still some days left here. The conditions seem to be good. It started to get warmer due to sunnier weather and therewith it became more humid but we don’t mind. We want to crush anyway

More to come soon and cheers from Bamberg

David