(c) – Ben Ullmann

Today I was able to send „The Elder Statesman“ (9a) at Rotenstein in Northern Frankenjura which is just some footsteps away from „The Essential“ (9a) at Luisenwand.

The Elder Statesman is the direct version into „The Last Rites“ (8c+) I’ve sent some days ago when Ruben sent The Essential too. It is the boulder at the start which adds one grade. There is one tiny crimp for the left hand from where You have to catch a three finger pocket. This move is quite hard. The upper part is the same climbing.

The temps are cold right now (around 5 degrees C) and I had to struggle with numb fingers again. Besides this the climbing felt easy today. It could be a soft 9a.

If a project is ticked, the next one’s waiting! I am motivated.

Cheers David

(c) Ben Ullmann

Last weekend Ruben went direction south to meet up with David and to try some projects which they couldn’t finish last fall holiday at the „Luisenwand“ and „Rotenstein“. Ruben had been already pretty close to send „The Essential“ (9a) and after one day of getting back into the route he did it. It’s his second 9a after „Era Vella“ in Spain and his first in the Frankenjura. The send was unexpected because of rainy and foggy weather but fortunately the rock was almost dry. Just the top-out was a little wet but still climbable. For Ruben the crux consists of a dead-point-move at the second bolt. He is really happy that he was finally able to climb this beautiful, short and bouldery line on pockets.

At the same day David tried „The last rites“ (8c+) at the „Rotenstein“ which starts on the left side of „The Elder Statesman“ (9a) and goes into the same line afterwards. Because of the cold weather and the small crimps David often got frozen finger tips and had to struggle at the top of the route after the crux. To skip a clip was the quintessence for keeping the fingers warm enough and then he did it more or less easily.

Now Ruben has to be focused on school starting to pass the graduation exames soon. After a little rest and if the outdoor conditions will stay stable which isn’t sure yet David will go for „The Elder Statesman“ …

Cheers Ruben + David