Firnenburgbrothers.com » magic wood

New Base Line (8B+) in Magic Wood

admin — Sat, 09 May 2015 15:58:53 +0000

This April I went to Magic Wood for a couple of days to work on hard boulders I couldn’t finish the last time I was there. On the very top of my tick list there was New Base Line, a boulder problem which was originally put up by grand master Bernd Zangerl as an 8C. Meanwhile it has seen several attempts by the world’s best boulderers and got downgraded to 8B+.

It is not only hard. It looks also fine. A noble crack line running from right to left with a slight rise through an overhanging wall. In the middle of the wall above the crack line there are nicely shaped crimps and side holds heading up to the top edge. It is just perfect. A dream boulder. This is probably why it is supposed to be one of the best in the world.

The time and work I invested to call the ascent mine was totally worth it. The process of getting better and better on this problem confirmed a lot of things I’ve already learned in my young climbing life. In the end strong will, no doubts and tenacity were the mental skills to send it. I had a very nice time on it and I was very satisfied that I battled my way up this problem although the weather was about to upset my plans with rain and warmth during my stay. I again leave the wood with a bunch of good feelings. I try to come back as soon as possible to get back on the other major lines in Magic Wood. I am already looking forward to it. Let’s crush!

Thank You Eddie Fowke for the nice pics!

All the best
David

Alps Session Nr. 1

admin — Thu, 11 Sep 2014 10:19:05 +0000

After Fontainebleau became too hot in the beginning of May I headed over into the Alps visiting some of its best bouldering areas such as Magic Wood in Switzerland and Silvretta in Austria. I was lucky that there always was someone to record my hard ascents. In this case thanks to Michael Paulus, Georg Grubner and Ilari Kelloniemi! Here is a short video clip with three top-class problems I’ve done in May and June. I hope you like it

Cheers David

Three months of meeting inspiring climbers

admin — Wed, 06 Aug 2014 09:16:44 +0000

Deep Throat (8B), Magic Wood – (c) Markus Ixmeier

From April until July I’ve been traveling from Sweden via Fontainebleau into the Alps bouldering without touching my harness and rope a single time. I’ve also been competing at boulder competitions. I even could win the German Seniors’ National Boulder Cup in Auerbach, the German Juniors’ Championship in Friedrichshafen and the International Juniors’ EYC in L’Argentière. During these months on the road I’ve met inspiring people and had amazing climbing experiences. I’ve discovered gorgeous places and widen my horizons.
I’ve sent many hard boulders up to 8B+ (see: tick list on 8a.nu) in that time and increased my climbing level significantly. Thank You everyone I met for this unforgettable time we’ve had! Here is a “potpourri” of some impressions I can give and some reports that have been published. There are some video clips to start with, too.

Enjoy reading some further links in more or less chronological order

Fontainebleau

– Scarpa Blog post about my boulder climbs (in German)

- Several posts on Kletterszene (in German)

Magic Wood

- Nice article by my friend Nora Kiraly on her blog (in English)

- Bodhi Climbing, the camping, guesthouse and backpackers in Magic Wood, writes about the latest actions in the climbing area (in English)

- 8a.nu about The Never Ending Story 8B+ (in English)

- Résumé on 8a.nu „David Firnenburg esta que explota“ (in Spanish)

-The website Pentranje reports about my ascent of The Never Ending Story 8B+ (in Polish)

German Boulder Cup in Auerbach

- Article plus pics on Kletterszene (in German)

- Article plus pics on Nordbayern.de (in German)

Sustenpass (CH)

- The Italian website Infoboulder.com with a post about the double ascent of Gespresster Hase 8B+ by Giuliano Cameroni and me (in Italian)